Nero Profumo's Best of 2014

Another year just passed and, as usual, we witnessed countless brands trying so hard to standout with their promises of luxury, exclusivity, quality, uniqueness and whatnot. Hundreds (if not directly thousands) of new launches, re-issues, re-launches. New brands, new perfumes, new formulae but, in the end, for the most part, the same old stories. In this more and more crowded playground, we've all tried to navigate in what has become an impossible to catch-up with scenario. We've tried to find our own standouts and our new favorites in a sea for the majority populated by forgettable juices presented in fancy boxes / flacons. Don't get me wrong, there have been several remarkable new fragrances this year but the *number of launches / good quality* ratio is getting lower and lower. Too much of everything. Too much. 

With that said, I still liked something like 40 (maybe 50) new fragrances. Bogue Profumo's Maai is definitely one of them. A grand animalic / floral chypre by one of the most interesting new perfumers currently on the market. Old-school, uncompromising and stunningly beautiful. Vero Profumo never disappoints and the new Rozy Voile D'Extrait gains a full mention amongst *the best of the best*. My third pick is for Masque Fragranze and their Russian Tea. A tremendous example that in order to make something remarkable, you don't necessarily need to deliver something weird or over the top. Wearable, easy to like, versatile and completely satisfying.

A bunch more that catched my interest includes Sadanne by Slumberhouse. Theoretically everything I don't like about fragrance but surprisingly working in its juxtaposition between berry notes, rose and animalics. Hermes finally delivered an Hermessence I would literally bath in. Their Cuir D'Ange has been a big winner in my book and I won't exclude buying the biggest bottle in the future. Angelo Orazio Pregoni and O'Driù kept on polarizing people and Pathetique worths a mention for being, beside controversy and personal tastes, a solid piece of perfumery and not simply a prank. Comme Des Garçons had three new fragrances and while I more or less liked all of them, their collaboration with controversial artist Tracey Emin and Serpentine Gallery get the prize for being their best this year. A little gem that, in the typical twisted style of the house, delivers a compelling mix of green notes, environmental suggestions and woody-incense. French firm Jardins D'Ecrivains launched Junky which was inspired by the much missed William S.Burroughs. A bizarre concoction based around hyper-green elements, hemp notes and incense. Jovoy tributed Sun Tzu's L'Art De La Guerre and it didn't disappoint. A bold masculine with an eye on the past on one on the present. Finally, Olfactive Studio and their Ombre Indigo. Beside being a tremendously wearable leathery fragrance, this one wins the prize for the most beautiful juice color to date…

For those who are not necessarily interested in novelty and are fine with something simply solid, Cuir Cannage by Dior delivered yet another take on classic leathers a-la Chanel's Cuir De Russie. Amouage presented their tribute to classic masculine perfumery with Journey Man. Cartier launched La Panthere, a sort of nu-chypre with a nice floral presence and what's possibly the best packaging amongst designers' offerings. Comme Des Garcons introduced Wonderoud and with it, yet another micro-variation on synth-oud. Not exactly exciting but so easy to wear and like.

A bunch of honorable mentions:

Serge Lutens -  L'Orpheline. This didn't grab me at first but kind of won me over with time.

S-Perfume - Musk-S. Sacre Nobi re-packaged and re-launched his infamous brand (responsible of gems such as S-Ex) together with four new fragrances of which Musk-S seemed to be the more interesting in its iteration of the *invisible-musk*.

Narciso Rodriguez - Narciso. Still one of the very few designer brands worth of attention.

Dior - Dior Homme Parfum. Basically an improvement on Dior Homme Intense.

In 2014 we've also witnessed a bunch of re-introductions / re-launches amongst which the most interesting from my point of view were Helmut Lang's entire range (finally!!!), the new version of Pascal Morabito's Or Black and the Le Galion line.

I've also discovered some (new to me) fragrances / lines I had previously left behind that gave me quite some satisfaction. Rancè and their L'Aigle De la Victoire has been a stunner for me. A skanky / animalic leather / oud combo with so much courage a no restraint. Resist Me by Liaisons De Parfums gained a special spot up there together with smoky-pillars such as Bois D'Ascese. Finally, the whole Abdul Samad Al Qurashi line. An immense range of arabic oils I suggest to not miss out for anyone into eastern perfumery or to those who simply want to discover a whole new world of fragrances..

Last but not least, I would like to mention a bunch of fragrances that for a reason or another I haven't been able to smell yet but I'm pretty sure they would have made their appearance in this article if I did. Unsound and their Ephemera project which involved perfumer Geza Schoen in a synesthetic collaboration with musicians Kode9, Tim Hecker and Ben Frost was probably the most exciting news about fragrance this year. Black Heart by Map Of The Heart has piqued my interest since it has been unveiled at Pitti Fragranze 2014. Beside the questionable design of the bottle, the juice sounds like something I would thoroughly dig. Eventually, the two new *missing-in-action* Humieck & Graef (Abime and Nouveau-ne). I'm still bummed by the fact they haven't hit the shelves yet…

That's all for this year, folks…catch you out there and have good holidays everyone.

Nero Profumo's Best Of 2013

From my point of view, 2013 has been a pretty interesting year for fragrance. Some expectations fulfilled as well as some very interesting new faces. Italy has done its part with what, in my opinion, is probably the best fragrance of the year: Montecristo by Masque. A sweaty/animalic concoction of spices, booze, woods and thick animalic musks that strikes for its tremendous character and immense beauty. Incredibly evocative, comfortable and daring at the same time. From the same house, Terralba definitely deserves a mention as well. Completely a different beast from Montecristo but nonetheless outstanding in its peculiar rendition of sand dunes and italian coasts. Extremely aromatic herbs and woods paired to a transparent and salty vibe throughout. Endless wearability and a great all-rounder. 

Nu_Be, which is known for their sublime quirkiness applied to very practical fragrances, delivered two of their most interesting fragrances to date: Mercury and Sulphur. The former is a crazy and avant-garde concoction of sparkling aldehydes juxtaposed to a warm sandalwood base while the latter strikes for its subtle animalic character paired to green and assertive notes such as vetiver and costus.

Beside all the controversy, O'Driù is still delivering pretty solid stuff and Peety gains a special spot in my list of recommendations for this year. A terrific spicy-woody-musky concoction that's vastly head and shoulders above the average quality available in today's niche offerings. French line Liquides Imaginaires introduces to a wider audience its former trio of fragrances Les Eaux-Delà enriched by a new series called Les Eaux Sanguigne. These fragrances, previously available only in very selected French stores, have been now re-launched also in user-friendly 100ml flacons of immense beauty. My personal standout is Sancti, a citrusy and sparkling composition built around a crispy frankincense base. Probably the most literal iteration of church-y incense to date.

On more *popular* territories, Tom Ford's Sahara Noir setted up a new standard for incense-centered fragrances by introducing what's probably the most straight-forward incense since Norma Kamali's infamous Incense. Neela Vermeire has setted the bar so high with her former trio of fragrances and I've been more than glad to discover my expectations for her Ashoka have been completely fulfilled. A trustworthy follower to her previous Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling with an incredible evolution from the top notes till the drown. Pure virtuosism.

Comme Des Garcons keeps on doing its own thing without disappointing. Both Black and Sugi have been two big winners in my book. The former is a viscous, and indeed dark, composition of incense, tar and unsweetened licorice which strikes for both its perfect balance and incredible versatility. The latter is probably my favorite in the Monocle series. A minimlisitc (as opposed to simplistic) concoction entirely based on bizarre synergies between few and pretty common ingredients that give birth to something absolutely novel. Kudos.

I will close this list with two fragrances by two houses that haven't impressed me in a while. Amouage seems to have found his way back to the old glory by introducing Fate Woman. Humongous, bombastic and absolutely perfect. Gucci, on the other hand, delivered *Forever Now* to celebrate the Gucci Museo in Florence. A collaboration with master perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi. Probably not a wower at first but definitely a grower after some wearings. Leathery, woody and spicy with a smooth vetiver base and soft floral patterns. It took me a while to completely get it but it has slowly become a favorite for this year.

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Honorable mention to Vero Profumo for enriching its catalog with the Les Voiles D'Extrait versions of all Vero's previous fragrances. Fantastic options for anyone who loved her Extraits but prefer spraying over dabbing. Etat Libre D'Orange delivers La Fin Du Monde which strikes as an incredibly solid and easy to wear take on iris with *that* quirky twist that has become the house's hallmark. Perfectly unisex, perfectly sized, smooth and endlessly wearable.

O'Driù Peety: I Will Piss You Off.

I'm leaning towards considering Peety, by far, the best fragrance by Pregoni. This is glorious!!!

The usual lemongrass-dark herbal-vanillish combo of O'Driù is joined by a "bearish" smell. Smells like a bear ... the opening is not as brutal as other previous Pregoni's fragrances. There's some Laurhum in it, some Lalfeogrigio and, yes, even some Leva but somwhat, smells different from any other O'Driù I experienced so far. It's like O'Driù remixed. The main hallmarks are there but they're assembled to result completely different from the original...

The remarkable animalic presence is not disturbing at all. It's a combination between amber

gris and castoreum to my nose even if I initially thought it was civet (hence the opening's bearish smell). It provides great warmness and depth and it's joined by rose, woods galore and a moderately sweet vanilla/tonka/cinnamon combo. There's an overall dryness provided by pepper and woods but the composition never walks the line of harshness. In fact, it's smooth and extremely refined while mantaining an overall assertive character.

There's nothing challenging about this fragrance if not the first couple of minutes of animalic-spicy blast. Composition-wise, I find it excellent and, honestly, I've never smelled something like it. There's a funny aspect going on during the evolution: The fragrance opens with a blast to soon settle down to a moderately powerful middle phase. When you're ready to think it's almost gone, it surprises you by starting to tremendously radiate. This final phase (which is the best part of the whole fragrace) goes on and on and on for several hours. The magic of synthetics. 

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The *personalized* version, while showing some remarkable differences, at the same time it doesn't feel *radically* different. The fragrance still preserves a thick leathery-musky-balmy structure but the vanillla, after the initial blast, gets tamed down brutally leaving space to a nice appleish-cinnamon combo that while sounding gourmandish, it totally skips the edible aspect of the accord introducing a metallic, sort of nose-tingling vibe the drives the fragrance towards more modern territories. The interesting aspect is that, despite the slightly metallic accord, Peety still feels incredibly warm, subtly animalic and sort of visceral. Again, there's NOTHING challenging about this composition, in fact, is quite easy to like. What, IMO, really changes from the "standard" version is that the base is less woody, less peppery and more about a spicy floral musk combo. The woods get almost killed in the "augmented" version.

A funny thing I'd like to point out after several wearings is that Peety works subliminally. You think it's gone but then you get whiffs of its peculiar projection and this goes on and on and on...Projection! This is the point of stregth of this stuff. Don't get me wrong, Peety is not a projection monster (at least not after the first two hours or so) but I find it smelling a lot differently when smelled up close. This is a very well done fragrance but if smelled in projection, this stuff is killer. So unique. That's why I personally believe a paper strip test doesn't give justice to the composition.

In the end, I've to say that with or without the P, this is a top quality fragrance. Both the two versions are well worth experiencing if you're into original fragrances. Again, unique without being odd.

Rating: 8.5/10

O'Driù is about to launch two new fragrances: Leden and Linferno.

Italians use to give in to the temptation before anyone!

"Collezione Genesi": created in 2011, the first, true and original temptation.

A pity, for the other ones.

Human mind has often memory areas that are nothing more than notes or simple data.

These data are often subjectively rethought, but they come from a collective knowledge, from social superstructure or from simple cultural acquisitions.

If it would be possible, metaphorising, “copying and pasting” all these information contained in our mind to reproduce them in reality, we would appear like nihilistic individuals without a goal neither an ethic.

That’s why human being is different from a computer, human being doesn’t copy and paste but works out again, adds and often brings emotions starting from simple points. 

But the source of these notes still is fundamental… Here so that one day, whichever day of the week, the first man and the first woman were born, in the form of an articulated but disarticulated perfume: “Ladamo” (the Adam) and “Leva” (the Eva). 

Was 1st September 2011, when Angelo Orazio Pregoni introduced these new O’Driù fragrances at Pitti Fragranze, and it will be in September 2013 at the same selective perfumery meeting that “Collezione Genesi” will be enriched by two more perfumes: “Leden” (the Eden) and “Linferno” (the Hell).

«When I thought to this collection», Angelo Orazio Pregoni tells, «I’ve tried to copy the God of Genesis! I obviously immediately realised that the “good and bad” topic was a very trite one, and I even wasn’t so sure to be able to avoid the risk of kitsch or -even worst- of caricature. 

So I gave up with God and I copied my neighbor and his wife!

Moreover, to avoid stereotypes I thought my neighbors exactly as they are: two living together individuals!

If someone a day should propose again the topic of Genesis in a fragrance, he would have the disadvantage of not knowing my neighbors. That’s all!» 

So, we just have to wait “Leden” and “Linferno”.

An Interview With Angelo Orazio Pregoni Of O'Driù.

Your whole line seems to be characterized by a strong, assertive signature. Can you talk us about it?

My perfumes redefine my thoughts’ shape, tracing out and engraving it. They spring up from my inner urges. Indeed, they truly are a digest of details and restlessness. They can be either backgrounds or reflexions, yet they are psychic representations aimed to “free” the one who wears them! So if we talk about signature, we must introduce the concept of freedom, or the ability to feel free. In my opinion: my perfumes are a kind of pagan Eucharistic rite, always recognizable. This membership is the real signature

What’s behind your choice of releasing most of your fragrances in extremely limited batches?

“Non seriality” is something that the industrial method cannot create.

Each perfume I create is an authentic and unrepeatable dedication.

It’s anti-dogmatic, it takes its final shape only when laid on the user’s body: it lives with its owner, pours him a scotch, lights itself a cigar up and smokes it discretely. It loves walking and stealing breaths, reading something in the evening and meditating upon unfaithfulness. It’s an obsession!

Your fragrances have always a solid artistic concept behind them to the point that some of them have been composed specifically for, if not during, art performances. Can you talk about this link?

I need to show every aesthetic expression of Art, leaving an odorous, sublime trail, without any prejudice, like in my performances.

“Inspiration” is the real difference in the creative process, what distinguishes making perfumes for smaller/’niche’ perfume houses or for big companies.

“Inspiration” is a word that means “blow into”: in ancient Greece the oracle used to inhale some “sacred” fumes before making a prophecy.

So, if we look at the ancient world, inspiration is something that get in touch with our sensitiveness through the nose.

This would be simple for a “Nez”!... but I’m a shaman, so “inspiration” is a truly mystical notion for me, as art is!

We often talk about the Guerlinade, Tauerade (the house’s signatures) and so on but, in your case, although your line is characterized by a distinctive signature, it would be a little reductive. When it comes to O’Driù, we should probably talk about Odriù-ism as if we were referring to an artistic movement. What’s the O’Driù-ism manifesto?

Each O’Driù perfume is conceived as a single creation, each fragrance is an artistic work in a very limited production, handmade with intrinsically alchemic essential gestures: they are me, not my signature 

I don’t know what ‘niche’ or ‘selective’ perfumery means, I just know that there was an empty space in perfumery before O’Driù. 

So I think we have to refer O’Driu-ism just as “art without use” or as I define my movement, “no use art”. 

Perhaps it’s more correct to say that the contemporary art world has approached me. Postmoderns have been the latter to “read” contemporary art still using aesthetic canons. Then, there was a rejection of these canons, favouring a more philosophical idea of art, and a more “conceptual reading of art”. We can say that the momentum that my work impresses to “contemporary art” is something unique and never seen, and never even smell. I’m aware that I have opened a door, never codified: the art through the experience of smell.

If you were supposed to do a bespoke fragrance inspired by an historical character of the past, who would you choose and what the fragrance would smell like?

I would be happy to do a bespoke fragrance for Sir “Charlie” Chaplin. This fragrance would smell of silence, like culture does. 

To me, your fragrances smell like nothing else available on the market. You seem to have created a completely brand new olfactory experience never smelled before in a body fragrance. What are your roots? Studies? Are there any perfumers who, somewhat, influenced your work?

I’d say that the most important olfactory experience about O’Driù is “coherence”. O’Driù uses only completely natural raw materials and essences. 

I don’t know exactly if I look like someone, I don’t even know why I am able to create fragrances. Often I tend to be myself, and this is enough for me.

I think I’m a novice, and I hope to live long enough to become a professional… I’m lying! I just want to live long!

You recently launched a new series called Haiku. Can you talk us about it?

The Haiku family draws its inspiration from the perfumes of “Alchimia di Profumo”. Haiku is a very poetic form of perfume typically characterized by three constituents: firstly a melody of eight essences, then five other essences that act as “sounds”, eventually three more essences: the “noises”.

By now, we present Linfedele. The notes of this new scent are the “incense-that-betrays its sacrality” ones… then you have to smell the roasting of coffee, the floral notes of geranium, yerba mate, balsamic pine needles, the elegant vanilla and the heavy themes of patchouli. Now you know something about unfaithfulness!

In most of your performances you often show full frontal nudity. The link between fragrance and carnality seems very strong in your work. The human body always plays a central role with all its parts, from hair ‘till the most intimate parts. The most interesting aspect of all this, is that all of the above is clearly not related to what we usually call “body chemistry” but, instead, it seems to be more related to a strong erotic component. What’s your personal vision?

I think erotism arises from its own history… Let me explain: with my own creations, such as olfactory treatments that I perform on underwears, I sublime every sex drive beyond the material and the object of attraction, until to a microscopic investigation of intimacy. This is the strength of my art, being devoid of any concept and each symbol through the raw emotions felt by the nose. Emotions that surpass anything provocative sense of sight and touch (always present in my performances). Free emotions that are consumed during the execution. It’s just the mere formalization of artistic flow that have to deal seriously with vision and touch, creating a product and a price, the price of the testimony. 

There is a classicism inherent to both Lalfeorosa and Lalfeogrigio that I find literally mind blowing. What’s the inspiration, scoop and potential commercial release of these two fragrances?

If Lalfeogrigio contains odd numbers of “Alchimia di Profumo”, the Lalfeorosa contains the even one. They contain other essences too, that characterize them in an antithetical way. It is a mystic game. As the legendary river Alpheus, these perfumes are born under track... like most river-gods, they are perfume-gods, and I hope they will be the object of the love of Artemis, if she can spend 888 euros!

What we should NEVER expect from O’Driù? Any ingredient, type of fragrance or whatever else that you won’t involve in O’Driù?

Ignorance!

Is niche perfumery’s “behind the scenes” the same as, say, literature’s? nepotism, hypocrisy, snobbery....

Literature wouldn’t be enough to tell what fusses “behind the scene”… but a word can sum up everything: ignorance.

Future plans?

I think that holidays with Ogma (my dog) are better than a performance in London! But I love New York too! 

By Alfarom.

this article first appeared on Basenotes

O'Driù Laurhum: Ungroomed Elegance.

Let's start from the name. A pretty brilliant combination of things: Laurhum ----> (L') Aurum (latin word for gold, hence the colour of the bottle). Laurhum is also Laurel + Rhum, which are two of the main elements of this composition. Here's the official list of notes: Amyris Balsamifera, Citrus Reticolata, Vanilla Planifolia, Citrus Aurantinum, Nicotiana Tabacum, Matricaria Chamomilla, Cangara Odorata, Laurus Nobilis, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum. 

Now for the juice. The fragrance strikes as slightly simpler if compared to other deliveries from the house but don't expect anything minimalistic, transparent or light hearted. Laurhum is a bold, viscous/oily potion of extreme beauty and, just like most of the other deliveries by Mr.Pregoni, it needs some wearings to get warm to it. The opening is kinda brutal (as usual) with a blast of laurel juxtaposed to a green citrusy presence and god knows what else. A true to life cigar note breaks in right away and together with amyris add a salty, kinda urinous vibe. Intensely aromatic and sort of pungent in its literal reproduction of a cuban cigar factory and aged rum. Rough, extremely natural and...challenging.

Vanilla, the real star here, joins the party and provides, together with cinnamon, some sweetness. The fagrance takes form and morphes into an incredibly elegant and wearable masculine concoction of woody tobacco and top quality vanilla enriched by spices and laurel serving as perfect refinements. An overall boozy vibe preserves Laurhum from becoming overly sweet or affected while a moldy presence provides the typical O'Driù challenging twist.

Laurhum is a bespoke fragrance made for Campomarzio70 and released in very limted batches of 33 pieces each. For those who don't know, Campomarzio70 is possibly the  best niche shop in Italy. In their three stores located in Rome they carry almost anything available on the niche market including all the main brands plus a huge selection of avant-garde offerings by extremely exclusive high-end houses and uber-niche firms. A mandatory stop for anyone visiting the city.

A (minor) word of caution: the juice is colored an intense dark yellow/green and stains paper and fabric almost as olive oil would.

Downline: This is Tobacco Vanille for people who actually like fragrances. Once again, O'Driù is not entertainment, it's a lesson. 

Rating: 8.5-9/10

O'Driù Lalfeorosa: Future Retro.

Another outstanding delivery from O'Driù. 

If you're getting sick of beautiful and catchy top notes evolving into synthetic and predictable drydowns, O'Driù is well worth checking out. In this context, among the newest brands,the italian firm has one of the most solid ranges available on the market. Ok, their fragrances are surely not the most easily approachable around and (may) need some wearings to be fully understood and appreciated but, once you've become familiar with the house challenging herbal signature, you'll be redy to discover some truly amazing compositions.

Lalfeorosa could make a perfect place to start exploring this wonderful range being, IMO, one of Pregoni's easiest to like deliveries. The usual culinary, sort of apothekary opening is toned down to quickly reveal a mindblowing drydown of spicy floral patterns (mainly rose and jasmine) and sweetish/balsamic elements such as tonka, vanilla and patchouli. Smooth yet incredibly rich, warm and extremely well balanced. A wower.

For several reasons, Lalfeorosa made me think about the most classic Guerlains (ok, I said it). Don't get me wrong, the fragrance doesn't share many objective similarities with the french firm but, at the same time, it shows the same solidity and overall top quality of ingredients. It's classic yet incredibly innovative and, most of all, when they do it right, there's no match for anyone else...

Rating: 8.5/10

O'Driù Laltrove 1001: The Tyger

Elitism and snobbery seem to be two of the most common aspects of high-end perfumery firms but, solid brands who deliver solid fragrances just like O'Driù is doing, don't need to endorse such attitudes. Ok, Pregoni is surely responsible of a bunch of the most exclusive fragrances around, but this doesn't mean that exclusivity have to be necessarely related to snobbery or elitism. In this context, O'Driù perfectly reflects its "maitre parfumeur" vision which is a journey into art, literature and culture, not just fashion. Good job O'Driù.

Laltrove 1001:

Tyger! Tyger! Burning bright

In the forests of the night:

What immortal hand or eye

Could frame thy fearful symmetry?

from "The Tyger", William Blake, 1794

A tiger in a dark forest. This is the most appropriate and fitting image to describe Laltrove 1001. A brutal, sort of arresting opening accord of astringent citruses immediately joined by the usual aromatic herbs galore and a strong, dark green presence. Breathtaking. This initial phase is surrounded by an overall anisic/absynth vibe that while mantaining the general dry carachter of this composition, provides a slight dose of "light" to an otherwsie incredibly dark fragrance. Believe me, there's nothing like it around.

Compared to other deliveries from the brand, Laltrove 1001 results pretty linear which, considering the amazing opening, is good news. The only substantial change during its evolution is an animalic, sort of leathery-musky element that shows its presence during the drydown providing some tension. It's there to remind you that you're not alone in the forest. There's a tiger crouched behind the bushes, lurking in the dark, patiently waiting for its prey.

Rating: 8/10

O'Driù LONDA 1005: Like It or Lump It!

I'm coming to the conlcusion that Mr.Pregoni is the master of the openings! Most of his compositions opens just like a whole opera played in a few minutes. While all this may sound a bit overwhelming and confusing, let me reassure you that everyhting it's incredibly detailed and clear and happens so naturally. Londa 1005 makes no exceptions.



If the name Londa 1005 (which stays for italian L'Onda - The Wave) together with the presence of "salty notes" make you think about an aquatic fragrance, be advised that there's nothing marine/ozonic/ oceanic here, in fact the fragrance opens with a blast of challenging herbs and spices (sage, cumin, pepper and others) paired with a bizarre pine/mint accord and joined by strong, astringent, sort of bitter-and-smoky notes. The house signature is clear and works just like a warning: "We're O'Driù, like it or lump it".



The overall sweaty/animalic vibe is immediately softened by aromatic citruses and other fizzy notes such as lemongrass and ginger that while blending perfectly with the pepper/mint/pine accord, drive the fragrance towards balsamic territories. In this phase there's something that may vaguely remind of Villoresi's Piper Nigrum but don't let this mislead you: Londa 1005 is one of a kind.



All of the above happens in a few minutes and, as I previously said, it's incredibly plausible and natural. It's like taking a thrilling ride on one of those winding slides at the water park. You're shaked, amazed and thrilled to then jump into a refreshing finale into the water.

After the opening, a salty/woody/vetiver base surrounded by the usual amount of herbs and spices, starts to break-in while coniferous notes and lemongrass settle down and serve as necessary refinements. A remarkable musky quality provides some mistery. No sweetness detected throughout. Once again, Londa 1005 is not something for everyone but, If compared to other deliveries from this house, this is surely among the most easily approachable. This is not to say that it's simpler (because it's anything but), but slightly more "familiar".



Let's make it simple: a terrific take on vetiver.



Wether you like it or not, I still think that Pregoni is one of the best things happened to perfumery in the past few years!

Rating: 8.5/10

O'Driù Lalfeogrigio

"...So twice five miles of fertile ground

With walls and towers were girdled round:

Ande here were gardens bright with sinuous rills

Where blossomed many

an incense-bearing tree;

And here were forests ancient as the hills,

Enfolding sunny spots of greenery"

from "Colderidge", Kubla Khan, vv.1-11

TOP NOTES

orange, elemi, jasmine, rose

MIDDLE NOTES

tonka beans, geranium, wormwood, capsicum

BASE NOTES

sandal, musk, angelica, tobacco, coffee

Lalfeogrigio blew me away! Literally! I don't know where to start as there is really a lot going on here...

Ok, first of all I learned that the perfume pyramid above it's just indicative. Apparently it should represent what the fragrance is supposed to evoke with its main accords. When you purchase the full bottle (or sample), the packaging comes with an additional list of actual notes that in this case includes more than 50 (fifty) ingredients involved in the making of this concoction (allergenics excluded). If, for certain reasons, this may sound a bit pretentious or off-putting, at the same time Lalfeogrigio delivers exactly what he promises: a huge fragrance.

What it smells like? I guess this is one of those compositions that may change depending on the wearer. Don't get me wrong, in this specific case, I'm not saying that your body chemistry will make the difference but, considering the incredible amounts of ingredients involved, it really depends on how you are sensitive to certain notes instead of others. Me? I get an initial blast of culinary herbs and spices (Piper Nigrum, Sage, Cumin, Laurel, Oreganum, Rosemary) that is arresting to say the least. As previously experienced with other compositions from the same house, the opening is brutal, unpretty, rough...If you're familiar with Villoresi's fragrances you'll probably know what I'm talking about. Sort of an ugly duckling type of stuff.

If you survived to the initial "assault" you're now ready to be treated to a consistent amount of resins (Boswellia Sacra, Boswellia Carteri, Myrrh, Styrax). The transition is repentine but skilfully handled by introducing an extremely sophisticated floral accord (rose and jasmine) joined by vanilla and tonka beans. In this phase, Lalfeogrigio plays the juxtapositions game contrasting the sweet base with a strong masculine vibe provided by geranium, leathery castoreum, spices and absynth/lavender. WOW it's musky too! Perfectly balanced!

If this may sound a bit over the top, let me tell you it's not. Everything is so detailed and clearly detectable just like an high resolution picture. The main point of streght of Lalfeogrigio is to be incredibly bold but at the same time never loud or vulgar...pure symphonic perfumery. Another remarkable aspect is that everything smells incredibly natural (as opposed to synthetic) which, nowadays, is quite a plus...

I could go on saying what else I detect but I prefer to stop it here. Just let me write a list of fragrances/brands that popped up in my mind while wearing this outstanding concoction...

Parfum Sacre, Jicky (and other Guerlains), Musc Ravageur, YSL Nu EDP, Black Cashmere, A Taste of Heaven, Santa Maria Novella, Villoresi, Ambre Sultan, Ambre Precieux...

Mandatory for anyone into outstanding drydowns.

Rating: 8.5/10

O'Driù Vis Et Honor: War and Peace

Perfume: Bryophyta, Citrus sinensis, Anthemis nobilis, Commiphora myrrha, Balsamic vinegar, Extra virgin olive oil, Dipteryx odorata, Boswellia sacra, Vetiveria zizanioides, Laurus Nobilis, Artemisia absinthium, Mimosa casta, Castoreum, Elettaria cardamomum, Ferula galbaniflua, Origanum majorana, Mentha, Myrtus communis, Pinus sylvestris, Thymus vulgaris, Citrus limon, Lavandula stoechas, Pelargonium rosa, Juniperus communis, Boswellia carteri, Ulva rigida.

Vis et Honor's opening is like a 33rpm record played a 75rpm. A remarkable lavender note plays solo for a few seconds as a soprano voice to immediately introduce a full-size orchestra performing an hyper-virtuoso and majestic piece of symphonic music. All the elements are clear and perfectly orchestrated by Pregoni who's able to show in the first three minutes what his true potential is. 

In the front we clearly hear the strings together with the woodwinds that go from astringent artemisia, laurel, mint, citruses and mimosa while on the right side of the stage the brass instruments start to play piney notes, spices, thyme, oreganum and chamomille contributing to a crescendo that is quite breathtaking. This is the topic moment of the opera, the tension is very high when the drums and all other percussion intruments such as castoreum, tonka beans, incense, mosses, other resins and vetiver start to beat time faster, louder and deeper to finally reach the gran finale which leaves the theatre with a warm, enveloping and endless echo...Epic. Standing ovation.

Smoky, spicy, emotional, animalic, rough, complex, visceral, balmy, exclusive, herbal, evocative, brutal, poisonous, ancestral, invigorating, natural, aromatic, edgy, elitary, full-bodied, powerful, solid...recommended.

Rating: 7.5/10

O'Driù LADAMO: Everlasting Flowers

LADAMO (L'Adamo) stays for Adam and together with LEVA (L'Eva / Eve) form the Genesi line. One masculine and one feminine that I suppose should work as sort of signature of the house...



LADAMO strikes as a more complex/richer version of Huitieme Art's Fareb as it basically opens with the same rooty immortelle/ginger accord. Anyone who's usually not into helichrysum should carefully avoid this composition as this is what it's all about. The immortelle note is devoided of most of the burnt-sugary feel and emphasized on its fenugreek and woody-liqorice aspect while a light mimosa note provides a little refinement that's not enough to tame this insanely powerful composition. Where Fareb introduces leather, LADAMO pushes on spices (mainly cardamom) and juniper to add even more body. The fragrance stays pretty linear for hours and hours to finally "evolve" into a galbanum driven drydown.

Definitely masculine, full-bodied and with a strong herbal quality. LADAMO It's pervaded by a rough edge as opposed to sophistication and refinement and in this context it shares the same old apothekary quality of ancient houses such as Santa Maria Novella. For other aspects (the use of spices and the overall oriental feel), it may bring to mind of an uncompromising version of some early Diptyques. A fragrance that sounds like a statement, a statement that speaks of great quality ingredients, a couple of accords, no frills.



Do I like it? It smells good and I'm a sucker for immortelle but at these prices I expect a little more than a straight forward helichrysum...

Rating: 6.5-7/10