Guest Reviewer Of The Day: Claire Vukcevic aka ClaireV.

Claire Vukcevic is a part-time blogger on the blog Fragrancedaily.com and member of Basenotes (ClaireV). She spends money she doesn’t have on perfumes and then writes novel-length reviews of them. But she can’t help it. 

For other reviews by Claire Vukcevic you might want to check Basenotes or Fragrance Daily

Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI - Palatial Chypre

I am a big Henry James fan. Or at least I used to be until one day at school, my fifth form English Lit teacher pulled a copy of The Golden Bowl out of my school bag and gasped, “You’re reading this? Oh dear me, no – this is far too difficult for you. It will put you off James for life.” But I had already read The Golden Bowl. In fact, I had waltzed through it, not realizing that it was supposed to be difficult. But do you know what? From that day forward, I have struggled with Henry James. Once someone points out that something is difficult or complex, it becomes so. Like someone flipping that switch in your brain between unthinking enjoyment and sudden, painful self-awareness.

I love Chypre Palatin with my unthinking part of my brain. I know, on a purely intellectual level, that it is a Henry James type of scent – grand, complex, full of moving parts clicking into place. The notes list on Basenotes alone contains twenty separate notes, about two thirds of which I can’t pick up at all. It doesn’t matter. I slip into Chypre Palatin with a shiver of unadulterated pleasure every time, just as easily as my unthinking brain once slid into Henry James. 

Chypres are not usually so easy for me – there is something about them that require me to switch the analysis part of my brain on. Something about the bristling bergamot beginning and the bitter backbone of mosses has always called to mind that scene in Titantic where Rose sees a mother is tapping her six-year old daughter on the spine to get her to straighten up. I admire the formality of chypres, and their immensely ordered, complex structure, but I find it difficult to breathe easily within their confines. 

But Chypre Palatin, I am beginning to understand, is one of those strange hybrids between

chypre and oriental that manage to combine the grandeur of the former with the comfortable, sweet, oozing sensuality of the latter. A soft landing for the bitter Chypre DNA, so to speak. Chypre Palatin belongs, therefore, to a special group of perfumes that includes Puredistance M, Jubilation 25, Une Rose Chypree, and even Guerlain’s masterpiece, Vol de Nuit. What these perfumes have in common is a chypre-like dressing of moss and bergamot, and maybe some other green, bitter, or herbal accents (usually up top), but combined with a base that feels utterly oriental, so that the fragrance starts its journey in an upright position and ends it in a supine position on a soft divan covered with furs and minks in a Sultan’s harem. These chypre-oriental hybrids are massively built, bristling with ambition, and big enough feet to stand in (and tower over) several genres at once – chypre, oriental, leather, animalics, and so on. They are not so much unisex as they are omni-sex. 

Chypre Palatin, for example, has a brief bergamot beginning, like a blush of first light over

the horizon at dawn, and a heart of authentic oakmoss that goes on forever, but these accents are married to a lush vanilla and a warmly animalic castoreum in the base, ensuring that the whole thing feels comfortably sensual. It is very masculine in feel, like Puredistance M, but the vanilla and castoreum in the base make it so cozy and sensual that I really can’t imagine its testosterone-fueled heart would put any woman off. It feels grand, dusty, old-school, reassuringly masculine, and solid. 

Chypre Palatin strikes me as a modern-day Vol de Nuit, in a way. Not in terms of smell, but for the fact that they are both grand, baroque-scaled perfumes recalling a more romantic past than the time in which they were created. Also, despite all of that ambitious scale and reach, they both feel perfectly intimate and suitable for quiet, homebound pleasures. Chypre Palatin might be the Golden Bowl of its genre, but I enjoy it in that simple, instinctive way I used to enjoy Henry James before the thinking part of my brain was switched on. Just don’t listen to anyone who tells you it is a difficult or complex thing.

Rating: 9/10

   

Robert Piguet Bandit: Another Crack of The Whip

Unfortunately I've never had the chance to smell the original version of Bandit, but I can say this reformulation is still HUGE! A majestic striaghtforward bitter leather chypre and one of the few in the genre to absolutely stand out for its severe charm. It opens with a bold and strong animalic note that dominates the whole scent throughout. Green notes, white flowers and woods, joined by slight spices in the drydown, soften (a bit) the general harshness and severity. A perfect creation, unique and surely a trendsetter in the leather/chypre genre. Bandit is a serious contendant to other masterpieces of the same family such as Knize Ten or Cuir De Russie but where the latters strike as luxurious and enveloping, the former is definitely among the most severe and "cold" compositions available on the market. A masterpiece and an all time favorite.

A must try for anybody!

Rating: 10/10

Vero Profumo Onda. You Don't Have To Say Please...

Saying that Onda EDP is a challenging composition would be like considering Marcel Proust and easy read. Onda is far beyond being just challenging, is weird, destabilizing and unusual but at the same time "cultured". It is built around a solid structure that shows many characteristic of classic perfumery and adds a bizarre, sort of futuristic, accord of passion fruit and vetiver that together with floral pattenrs and ginger gives birth to a strange blend that sits somewhere between a disinfectant, a mass destruction weapon and pure luxury. Overall Onda smells salty/sweet with fresh nuances, flowery with acidic/unripe fruits and definitely sulfurous (urine?). While all of this may sound disencouraging, I still believe that Onda deserves our respect as one of the most intriguing, complex and original compositions around. Onda, more than like a proper fragrance, sounds like a declaration of intent that says "I'm here, and I'm here to stay!".





On the other hand the extrait de parfum is, paradoxically, more familiar. Don't get me wrong, it's still far from being easy to wear or "pretty" but, its chypre-y animalic leather structure brings, somehow, to mind of the beloved Djedi (well, sort of). A loud vetiver-leather concoction that moves on the thin line between glory and precipice, between a luxurious smell and a revolting stink. Earthy, animalic and almost disturbing yet extremely compelling. Onda was definitely an ambitious and risky project just like doing tightrope walking between two skyscrapers. It took some skills and guts but Vero Kern has successfully managed to walk to the other side. Chapeau.





Two of the most challenging and compelling compositions that I've ever experienced and surely among my all time favorites. By all means niche stuff.



Rating: 9/10

Bijan Men And The Art of Farting in Public

Bijan Men is not simply a powerhouse, it's more like the Tsar Bomb. It doesn't remarks its presence, it yells at you and after slapping you in your face it asks "so what?"

A loud, intrusive and arrogant concoction of nutmeg, herbs and spices laying on a "chypre-y" structure (oakmoss/bergamot). If moderately applied it's very masculine and (somehow) elegant but one single spray too much and it will be like announcing your presence with a fart.



Rating: from 3 to 8 out of 10 depending on the quantity applied.