ELDO Rien Intense Incense: Can you take a little more?

Two tiny spritz on my wrist and BAM! It immediately turned from *my sotd* to *the scent of the whole city*. The sky turned dark, thunders and lightning followed right away, people struggled at opening their umbrellas blown away by a scary wind. I've heard a couple of car crashes, ambulances, dogs hawling, people screaming. The Duomo's structural integrity weakened and then, the whole building collapsed. It was mayhem.

WOW!

I mean, seriously, wow! This stuff's opening is really quite something. It's basically Rien amped up at the Nth-power (cough cough) and with an extra dose of...*something else*. Yes, it is obviously incensey but it's also very clean. There's a juxtaposition between the dirty vibe of the former Rien and something I would classify as *pure*. It might actually be the synergy between the extra dose of incense and the aldehydes. I'm still trying to figure it out but it's definitely something to experience. It made me smile but then I realized I was actually grinning.

Well, for the first 30 minutes it literally blew me away. Yes, I had to shout to communicate with anyone who was trying to interact with me because Rien Incense Intense was screaming all over the place but it was totally worth it.

Then, suddenly, the inner monster living inside this incarnation of Rien took a Xanax and fell asleep and all I was left with was my dear ol' Rien.

Now, I LOVE Rien to pieces but I'm still not sure RII is full bottle worthy for those who already own the original. With that said, if you don't own any version of Rien, go for this! Absolutely!!! It's everything you get from Rien plus an extra 30 minutes of unseen footage. 

Sillage: Choking

Longevity: Exhausting

Rating: 7/10

Be A Good Boy: Go to Church. Liturgical Incense Inspired Fragrances Pt.2 (The Second Wave - Avignon Anyone?)

Calè Fragranze D'Autore - Preludio D'oriente

This is an hidden gem. One of those fragrances that fly under the radar but should definitely deserve much more attention.

Preludio D'Oriente moves in the same direction as other compositions a-la Avignon / Cardinal but where these two stay pretty linear in reproducing the liturgical frankincense, PDO is enriched by dark dry woods, leather and a tiny amount of oud. The opening is quite severe with a consistent incense note enhanced in its lemony aspect by astringent artemisia and citruses. Dry woods and leather join the party right away turning the fragrance into a darker and misterious composition that continuely moves on the thin line bewteen harshness and warmness while manitaining a perfect balance. Oud is subtle, toned down, restrained and used just to give some extra boldness to this marvellous composition.

Severe, dark and misterious. Top quality stuff!

Rating: 8.5/10

Mark Buxton - Around Midnight

This is not a bad one. It's quite ok, actually, but unfortunately is by Mark Buxton.I don't understand why some perfumeurs deliver better fragrances when they work for other brands instead of their own. When I think of Mr Buxton what comes to my mind is Comme Des Garcons 2, or the original Comme Des Garcons, or Ouarzazate, or CDG White. Masterpieces! Around midnight is a smoky, dark and minimalistic frankincense sfragrance (even if incense it's not listed among the notes). It's quite ok, if you don't know any better.

Sillage is barely acceptable, lasting power no more than 2-3 hours.

Rating: 6.5/10

Tauer - Incense Extreme

Perfumes form people that really knows how to make them! Incense Extreme is an extremely solid composition. Modern, consistent and elegant but at the same time descreet (expecially during the drydown). One of the most minimal incense creations yet among the most versatile. If you ever thought that Avignon was one of the most realistic "churchy" incenses, then try this one. The opening is breathtaking with a blast of pungent frankincense and petit grain surrounded by a remarkable woody vibe. Dry, almost harsh (cedar), but magistrally orchestrated to  result incredibly likeable. Green undertones paired off with coniferous hints add depth and charme.The drydown it's somehow "lighter", comfortable and close to the skin and it's when the Tauer's signature becomes unmistakeable. I still found Avignon to be much more original and emotional but Tauer's take on straight forward frankincense is surely a winner. Recommended.

Rating: 8/10

Montale - Full Incense

Montale goes Comme Des Garcons. Bolder than Avignon and slightly less minimalistic but still too literal. A rip-off.

Rating: 4/10

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke - MB03

MB03 smells good but we really needed another one like Avignon, Around Midnight, Cardinal? This is a good, dark church-y incense but, unfortunately, it's really too similar to the ones I mentioned which are cheaper and much easier to find.

Rating: 6/10

Olivier Durbano - Cristal de Roche (Rock Crystal)

Among the Avignon rip-offs the Durbano is probably the most original (which is an euphemism to say that is slightly less literal). The typical church-y cedarwood/incense accord is joined by some spices and other woody notes and it's paired to the usual balmy, sort of synthetic Durbano's signature. Nice but forgettable.

Rating: 6.5/10

Profumum - Olibanum

This is a real alternative to seminal scents like Avignon or Incense Extreme. Olibanum is great if you like smoky incense based fragrances but it's quite different form the well known antagonists. Together with the usual liturgic vibe Profumum introduced a sealing wax effect that make Olibanum irresistible. While the opening is still quite severe and chilling, the drydown turns dry-and-warm, meditative and comfortable. A terrific woody-green take on the main theme. Highly recommended!

Rating: 7.5/10

Be A Good Boy: Go to Church. Liturgical Incense Inspired Fragrances Pt.1 (The Classics)

Armani Prive - Bois D'Encens

This is a masterpiece! Dark, gothic, deep and mysterious liturgical incense. Together with  Avignon, this stays at the top of church inspired fragrances and it's surely one of my favourites. It's pungent almost astringent in the opening to turn much more smoother, warmer and earthier during  the drydown. Pepper, some coniferous, vetiver and animalic hints give birth to a multi-faceted incense based composition that while smelling dark and gothic it's incredibly elegant in its minimalistic approach. Not too powerful but definitely remarkable. If you want your incense to stay close to the skin but to result incredibly distinctive at the same time, there's nothing like Bois D'Encens.

The original packaging came in a precious wood bottle and was available as a 50ml EDP at a quite unaffordable price. They now made a "smarter/cheaper" version with a dark glass bottle coming in a 100ml EDP size. Highly recommended!

Rating: 9.5/10

Comme des Garcons Series 3 Incense: Avignon

Avignon is HUGE! One of my favourite scents of all times. The opening is absolutely distinctive with an intense explosion of severe frankincense and myrrh, almost harshing but incredibly fascinating. The catholic church effect is pushed to the limit and persists during the drydown while camomille provides an extra dose of mystery and warmness smoothing the general harshness. Cedarwood and Iso E Super are clearly remarkable throughout but they're never overdone. A meditative scent that surrounds you with its intense warmness and deep resinous allure. As a trendsetter, Avignon became one of the most imitated straight forward incenses of the last 10 years (Heeley's Cardinal, Mark Buxton's Around Midnight, Biehl's MB3, Montale's Full Incense). Another Bertrand Duchafour's masterpiece!



Note: Avignon has a wonderful sillage and an amazing lasting power!



Rating: 9/10

Etro -  Messe De Minuit

Stating to its name I was expecting a dark and mysterious interpretation of the church-y frankincense but all I got was a (no more than) honest spicy citrus-patchouli-honey combo with some incense. The citrus is mainly orange that while blending with cinnamon and honey brings to mind of those bags of potpourrì you receive as a present from you neighbours at christmas. Not completely bad, but absolutely nowhere close to other masterpieces of the same family.



Rating: 6/10

Czech & Speake - Frankincense And Myrrh


The main ingredients, also mentioned in the fragrance's name, are paired to a classic musky/citrusy cologne with a result that while is not particularly outstanding it's still remarkably enjoyable and pleasant. If you're looking for your first frankincense/myrrh composition there're many better options out there, but considering this was originally rleased in 1984 and it's still one of the few citrus-frankincense-myrrh combo on the market, it definitely deserves a good rating. Very Nice.



Rating: 7/10

Gucci Pour Homme I

1999-2003 (perhaps 2004) was the best period for Gucci, Tom Ford was absolutely genius and everything he touched became gold. After that, Frida came in and everything went "black", catastrophic. Gucci Pour Homme I, IMO, was the expression of those creative years when Mr. Ford saved the maison from oblivion. A good composition of spices, liturgical-frankincense and ginger, running on the edge between dullness and uniqueness (basically it's a perfect "product"). It could be not the most original perfume around but it's absolutely pleasant, above the average and kind of a trendsetter in mass market perfumery.This was one of the last good releases from this house, after that we've been filled with monograms and ridiculous fragrances and clothes.



Rating: 8/10

James Heeley - Cardinal

As much as I love liturgic-frankincense fragrances and I never get tired of them, I still find Cardinal to be among the weakest in this genre. It clearly moves in the same direction of Avignon or Montale's Full Incense but it's nowhere close neither to the magnificence of the former nor to the strong lasting power of the latter. Overall smells fine but lasts nothing. Sort of Avignon Eau De Cologne emphasized on the clean-lemony aspect of the biblical resin...



Rating: 6/10