Dior *Sausage*: A New (?) Fragrance.

I don't know where to start with Sauvage.

let's start with this:

For unknown reasons, I really wanted to like it. There's something about most Dior's mainstream masculines that's never *too banal* or *too cheap* and, on top of that, the association between the words Dior and Sauvage must have played some mental tricks on me and made me think about Roudnitska's classic Eau Sauvage. Ok, we all know this is not an Eau Sauvage flanker and as a new, massively advertised, delivery from Dior, I thought I couldn't have skipped it.

For starters, this is not as bad as I expected. It's not even as bad as a rushed test might lead to think….but it's bad anyway in the end.

I won't go through a proper note breakdown because there's really not much to mention here. The opening it's the most generic peppery-citrus combo you could expect from a whatever modern woody-citrus fragrance. Slightly aromatic, zingy and metallic.The first hour in, I was really this close to dismiss it but then a smooth mineral amber base (ambroxan) broke in together with vetiver and things slightly changed. The fragrance plays in the same league as other *depersonalizing*, post-disinfectant fragrances such as Bleu de Chanel, Guerlain's L'Homme Ideal and before these, D&G Light Blue Pour Homme and L'Eau D'Issey but it takes the distance from the aforementioned perfumes by skipping that certain synth-y stickiness and / or loud volume that made all of them completely annoying to me. The Dior has a certain *raison d'être* provided by an elegant restraint and a class that is completely missing in most similar fragrances available on the market. It wears smooth and velvety with nice dark-ish facets in the base. It's extremely simple but, at least, they got right one of the two accords from which it is composed.

Do I like it? Let's put it this way: It doesn't completely suck. In the end, while I surely believe Sauvage is by far the best fragrance in this post Bleu De Chanel-phase, I still wonder if we really needed a post Bleu De Chanel phase. It feels deprived of any emotional aspect but not in a creative kind of way. It's unemotional without that certain sparkle that makes the difference between the words *aseptic* and  *aloof*. It feels devoided. It's carb free, gluten free, peanut free, allergens free…it's too politically correct. Ok, it's well done but for me it's not enough and, in the end, I guess it's just another fragrance for people who actually don't like fragrances. 

Last but not least, I'm not the biggest fan of the Dior Homme saga but compared to this, they're completely on another level. Like completely.

Rating: 5.5-6/10

Rundholz Sep.21.1966: A (Not So) New Fragrance.

I was so excited by the news of a new fragrance from Rundholz. Their previous 03.Apr.1968 was an incredibly solid take on straight forward balmy incenses slightly softened by barely perceptible floral facets. Thick, bombastic and completely enveloping. As it weren't enough already, it came with one of the most interesting bottle / box design I've seen in a while. A little masterwork which, with much of my surprise, skipped the typical association between minimalism and inconsistency by presenting something monolithic and comforting at the same time.

I'm afraid 03.Apr.1968 hasn't been topped by the brand new Sep.21.1966. It's still a take on incense but this time, instead of the smoky opaqueness of their previous fragrance, they opted for transparency, ethereal floral notes and green elements. What comes out is something extremely familiar to those who know Buxton's or Duchaufour's works. It's a sharp synth oudy-woody-incense with the addition of rhubarb, heliotrope and magnolia. There's a subtle smokiness going on but the overall vibe it's definitely more luminous than Rundholz' previous delivery. Not something necessarily bad per-se and surely still pretty much in-line with the brand's aesthetic but it feels really too deja-vu to gain a completely positive rating.

I still have to properly figure out what it exactly reminds me of but, just to give you a rough idea on the territories in which Sep.21.1996 moves in, think about Mark Buxton's Devil In Disguise, Aedes De Venustas EDP (post-L'Artisan from 2012), a bunch of Comme Des Garcons (Girl above all) and basically most of the dry-woody stuff by either Duchaufour and Baxton.

Kind of a letdown, I'm afraid.

Perfumer is Arturetto Landi who previously worked on Rndholz' first fragrance and for other brands such as Linari, Biehl Parfumkunstwerke and I Profumi Del Forte amongst others.

Rating: 5.5-6/10

Comme Des Garcons For Pharrell Williams - Girl: Unhappy!

Being myself a Comme Des Garcons aficionado, I don't deny that the news about this collaboration with Pharrell Williams left me a bit surprised. Yes, CDG delivered a bunch of *fancy* streetwear-inspired collections in the past (especially in their *Play* line) but, for the most part, I think their aesthetic is very distant from diamond rings / earrings and revised ranger's hats. I'm surely missing something here because there must be something else beside, um, mere commercial purposes that links these two entities but, when I think about Comme Des Garcons, what immediately comes to mind is their unmistakeable drop-crotch pants or their most avant-garde / punk-ish designs. I can't help it. Bascially because that's what I always liked about the brand. I can honestly live without their doodle-style red-hearts logos.

With that said, the fragrance is nothing more than a decent spicy woody concoction with floral facets. It opens with a leafy / green violet note paired to pepper. A smooth and kind of milky accord provide a fig-like vibe and some entertaining juxtapositions between transparent notes and opaque ones. The fragrance then turns into a darker synth woody / incensey drydown that dangerously borders into plastic-y woodyamber territories. That's it. 

It's nice and, depending on your tolerance to woodyambers, it's also pleasant to wear but, while feeling *smarter* than most celebuscents available on the market, it really adds NOTHING to the Comme Des Garcons roster. In other words I would say it's a trite CDG and a good celebuscent but given that my interest towards this fragrance was mainly because of the CDG's involvement, I'll have to stick to the *trite* aspect of it.

All in all I would suggest this to either Comme Des Garcons novices or to the brand's completists. People who don't have a special fondness towards the brand and are simply into *interesting* fragrances, might want to look somewhere else.

Given Kaws' involvement in the design of the bottle, this might become a collector's item pretty soon.

Rating: 6.5/10

Comme Des Garcons: (Not So) Wonderoud.

I'm pretty ambivalent about Wonderoud as my assessment goes in two different directions depending on how how approach it.

As a Comme Des Garcons lover, I think this brings almost nothing new to the table of woody fragrances they delivered thus far but, at the same time, if I approach it as a whatever mainstream wood-centered composition, this is vastly head-and-shoulders above the average quality available from similarly targeted / priced offerings. This is basically an average quality niche type of fragrance, sold at department-store prices.

In my perception, Wonderoud basically starts from the same bone-structure used in CDG's previous Wonderwood (and to a lesser extend Blue Santal). A combo of cedarwood, pepper, vetiver and sandalwood to which they now added a smooth but remarkable oud note. The final effect is of an intensely woody fragrance with greenish nuances. Dry but not harsh, mannered but not too affected, safe but not dull and pretty well rounded.

At the same time though, I find it a bit nondescript and not particularly distinctive. The cedarwood is not as prominent as in others deliveries by the same house and, as usual with CDG, they're still able to skip that woody harshness (typical of certain woodyambers) that seems to overpopulate department-store type of masculines. It's a well done fragrance, pleasant to wear and pretty long lasting…yet, I can't say I'm completely sold.

Downline: I think Wonderoud would make a nice option for anyone looking for a safer scent but wants to avoid smelling like a whatever department store shelf. It'd also make a nice introduction to the most daring deliveries by this house and, more in general, to western oud-themed stuff. CDG's aficionados might find it a bit redundant…

On a side note, it's pretty clear that the branch of Comme Des Garcons owned by Puig (basically all the fragrances that come in the oval-shaped flacon) are targeted to a more *generic* audience and , in this context, they still fear no rivals IMO. A bit of a disappointment though, came with the fact that Wonderoud is more expensive than your usual Puig-CDG. Is that because it includes the word *oud* in its name?

Very mild thumbs up. 

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Puredistance - Black: Expensive Pop.

I'm a big fan of both Antoine Lie and Puredistance but this time, I can't say I'm impressed. Lie is responsible of some of my favorite *contemporary* fragrances. His work for brands such as Comme Des Garcons, Etat Libre D'Orange and, lately, Nu_Be is the most blatant example of his talent and his ability to create subtly twisted fragrances that are wearable and at the same time anything but dull. On the other hand, Puredistance is pretty popular for targeting the upscale audience with their luxurious / plush deliveries. The pairing of these two polar opposites, sounded extremely interesting on paper but, as a matter of fact, Black doesn't convince me one bit.

The fragrance opens with a citrusy-peppery-saffrony accord that is definitely well executed and promising. There's a dusty, sort of sharpish vibe that brings to mind of modern masculine fragrances while speaking at the same time of quality and artistry. Unfortunately things fall apart right away with the composition taking a sweetish, red fruity, trajectory during the middle phase. This part is completely boring and, if you want, *cheap* smelling. Overly safe and somewhat generic, even a tad *sporty*. Things get a little better during the drydown when a sweetish oudy-incense base takes over but it's still not enough to save the whole fragrance from precipice. The deja-vu vibe is so strong to drive me mad. It goes from Clive Christian V to something more generically Amouageish (thinking about Epic Man but also Interlude Man and more in general their latest masculines) via Monegal's Agar Musk, Piguet's Casbah and the plethora of other oudy-peppery fragrances released in the past 5 years or so. 

I think they tried to target the more mainstreamish upmarket crowd here but, as a matter of fact, while not being completely bad, Black is far from justifying the hefty price-tag. For those who care, the fragrance is pretty restrained but with an exceptional longevity.

Rating: 5/10

An Excursion Into Sonoma Scent Studio - Part 2

Sienna Musk

Sienna Musk strikes as an extremely modern take on the woody-oriental theme. It opens with spices (mainly nutmeg and cloves) juxtaposed to something bright and fizzy, almost metallic that immediately made me think about a citrus-ginger combo. A sharp-ish woody musky base breaks in right away and drives the fragrance towards the modern and transparent spicy-oriental theme that Duchaufour played in several of his fragrances. Moderatley sweet, remarkably woody and unquestionably modern. It honestly would do great in any major niche range such as Eau D'Italie, Le Labo or, say, L'Artisan Parfumeur.

Tremendous lasting power. 

Solid and very nice.

Rating: 7/10

Fireside Intense

Campfire / fireside inspired fragrances are extremely risky because they often tend to bring tomind of barbecues or, more simply, of your house on fire. Fireside Intense, while definitely being smoky, avoids all these *unpleasant* associations and deliver a dark-woody aroma that will appeal to fans of thicker woody fragrances.

The opening is by all means smoky with a nice leathery vibe provided by birch-tar. The whole composition evolves around a guaiac-driven dry-sandalwoody bone structure to which Mrs.Erickson pairs a plethora of other woody-oudy notes. Fireside Intense feels very warm and while being definitely striking, it's not as scary as it might sounds. Powerful, dark and thick but somewhat weightless (as opposed to *heavy-handed*). Good for an evening spent reading a book in front of the fireplace but absolutely perfect for a walk outside during winter. This fragrance really shines outdoor.

A real gem and together with Incense Pure and Tabac Aurea, probably my favorite in the SSS range.

Rating: 8/10

Wood Violet

Violets and I generally don't get along very well and unfortunately Wood Violet makes no exception. With that said, I still appreciate how it skips the usual thick sweetness associated with this note. The fragrance opts for a tart and plush fruitiness and it's surrounded by an overall leafy green vibe that makes it more tolerable for me.  Problem comes with the unbearable powderyness that kicks in during the middle phase and lasts till the very final stages of the woody-musky drydown.

If you like the genre, you might want to give it a chance but for my personal tastes this is a no-go. Sorry.

Rating: 5/10

CoSTUME NATIONAL Cyber Garden: Brand New Yet Already Obsolete.

The first time I tried this on a blotter it almost made me cringe. If I weren't so fond of Antoine Lie, I would most definitely have dismissed it right away but I so wanted to like it that I grabbed a couple of samples for further exploration. 

On skin, it came out being somewhat better. It opens unquestionably mainstream-ish with the usual peppery-citrus combo but an aromatic green floral pattern joins the party right away giving the fragrance a subtle abstract twist. There're violet leaves, hints of minty-geranium and other greens together with a clean musky presence. The fragrance feels transparent and modern but most definitely *not* cyber. Yes, there's something unconventional that might vaguely bring to mind of brand new things, shrink-wrap and vinyl but it's just a hint that, in the end, smells more synthetically modern than futuristic / artsy (as the name of the fragrance would otherwise suggest). 

Personally, I tend to attribute this to the artistic direction at Costume National more than to

the perfumer himself. They wanted an avant twist but at the same time they also wanted to please their mainstream customers. What comes out has some potential but doesn't have enough balls to really stand out. Now, not that I expected super-abstract stuff a-la CDG but I didn't think it would have been so tame either.  

In the end, I think Cyber Garden is a better attempt at delivering a modern green fragrance than, say, Amazingreen but it's really nothing I would go out of my way to get a bottle. I can't honestly say I dislike it but I surely don't like it either. I seriously believe that a bit more of courage would have turned this fragrance into something really interesting. Barely nice and totally forgettable.

A few more considerations:

All about this fragrance is very middle/late 90s. Too much...even the word *cyber* sounds a bit demodè. Despite that, I was still sort of keen towards it because the involvement of Lie but there's nothing to do, it doesn't work for me. There's something I still have to properly point out that ruins it. I tend to believe it's inherent to the texture which unquestionably screams of *designer perfumery*. It's like one of those pop-songs by whatever main pop-artist (could be Gaga, could be Rihanna, could be anyone else). Super compressed, fizzing and super-sparkling trebles and and overall polish which make it feels too anonymous. Not to talk about the packaging which aims at being minimalistic but ends up looking just cheap. Honestly.

Rating: 5/10

Epice Marine: Hermessence And The Art Of Kidding Us All!

Epice Marine is as interesting as a fireworks show at noon. 

I'll probably find myself swimming against the stream here but, honestly, I don't think this is nowhere

close being a successful Ellena. 

Yet another iteration (micro-variation) on the Declaration theme. In a nutshell, considering how many times Mr.Ellenà proposed alternate versions of his popular composition, this would have been more appropriately labelled as Declaration V.87.4. It feels just like Apple that keeps on releasing basically the same devices with just a new (re-designed) knob. 

They squeazed this poor lemon till the very last drop. Give it a break. Eat a banana. 

So, part Declaration, part Voyage with the typical transparent facet of most Hermessences. This time it's something slightly salty, sort of calone-y. That's it. Smells ok (no more than that) but the big problem is it's neither as brilliant as Declaration, nor as honest as Voyage. It's totally lukewarm water sold at uber-fancy prices. 

You can build around Epice Marine as much conceptualism as you want but this is just Declaration V.87.4. 

I honestly expected everything except what I got. Which in this case doesn't mean surprise.  

FAIL

Rating: 4.5/10

Comme Des Garcons Nicegreen: Blue Cedrat

Blue Cedrat is probably the most commercial delivery in the Blue Series (or whatever they call it) and, admittedly, I was ready to dismiss it and bash it right after my first test on paper because of the strongly generic opening. Fortunately, knowing that Comme Des Garcons is not new to tricky fragrances, I decided to give it a second chance by grabbing a sample…and I'm (partially) glad I did.

A full wearing revealed a simple yet quite evolving fragrance. The opening still strikes as extremely generic in its somewhat trite iteration of the woody-citrus accord but the composition quickly opened to a *majestic* angelica accord that felt almost astringent in its incredibly green nuances while a subtle rose oxyde note, provided the usual metallic facets of many CDGs. In this phase Blue Cedrat was very earthy, refreshing, dry and incredibly radiant but, something else was just about to happen…

A smooth, dry, woody-incensey note makes its appearance and joined by a massive vetiver base slowly takes over to give birth to what can be considered the real essence of Blue Cedrat. This is actually when I began questioning the fragrance again…

On one side, I loved that the fragrance had three distinct phases that alternated theirselves so smoothly and naturally generating quite some pathos. On the other hand, I'm getting a bit tired of dry woods. I've to say though, that no less than 3-4 years ago, I would have probably went completely head over heels for whatever fragrance playing a similar theme. Today, as a matter of fact, this is probably my least favorite in the new *Blue* trio but, at the same time, it's far from being unremarkable especially when it comes to the quality/price ratio. If one's into dry woods, green fragrances and vetiver, this is something worth checking out. No doubts.

This is what I expected from Amazingreen but it probably would have been more appropriately labelled as Nicegreen. I believe this is going to be the real *hit* as far as commercial potential. 

A few keywords: French Lover, Terre D'Hermes, L'Homme Infini, Anat Fritz Tzora, Kenzoair, Comme Des Garcons 3, Fleurs De Sel, Jardin Du Poete.

Rating: 6.5-7/10

The Vagabond Prince: "Disenchanted Forest"

I'm afraid I can't say I'm "enchanted". The fragrance opens with a sort of Kir Royale/winey vibe and boatloads of black currant giving birth to an original accord that while smelling interesting it's far from what I usually like to apply on my skin . Green-ish elements provide nice but not completely successful sweet-and-sour, fruity-fresh facets enhancing, somehow, the sparkling-winey notes. The fragrance then quickly evolves into a woody-resiny oriental which feels a bit formulaic and, in the end, not much intriguing.


I'm a big fan of Duchaufour but I'm afraid I can't compare Enchanted Forest to the huge amont of masterpieces he delivered so far (Mohur, Trayee, Jubilation XXV, several Comme Des Garcons, several L'Artisans...to name only a few). Not bad but far from beng a winner in my book. Sorry.



Rating: 6.5/10

Interlude Man: Amouage's new Album!

Interlude Man drives me crazy. There are some aspects that I completely dig and others that I really can't get past. 

You're at a concert. The hall is packed with people waiting for the band to go on stage. Everybody talk to their friends and the overall result is the messy, cacophonic sound of thousand of people speaking at once but saying different things. You can't discern what they're talking about but you can clearly hear female voices mixed with male voices, someone is laughing hard, someone is screaming with excitement, others are calmly commenting the facts of the last few days. Everyone says something but you don't understand a thing, you just grab a bunch of words here and there but they make no sense at all. Well, this is how the Interlude Man opening acts on my olfactive sense. I pick hints of the spicy-oudy accord of Epic Man paired to a sweetish, almost gourmandic vibe and mixed with culinary herbs. A sparkling bergamot note serves as a slightly strident juxtaposition to the overall dark vibe but everything is so cacophonic to relust somewhat messy and confusing.

The lights on the stage start to play funny patterns announcing  the imminent start of the show. The general hubbub clams down and people focus their attention to the stage where the band's members are grabbing their instruments. The show begins, the crowd goes wild. This is the best part of the fragrance where a dark green earthy-herbal accord distantly reminescent of Memoir Man, is paired to the balmy quality of opoponax. Just magnificent. Moderately sweet, deep, dark and extremely addictive.

The show goes on and the band start to play a bunch of new tracks from their latest, partially successfull, album. Exaltation leave space to a bit of disappointment. You expected to hear more of the older classics but the band is now focused on promoting their news style which you're not very fond of. This is when Interlude Man introduces its drydown which is sweet, ambery, smoky and woody. Something we've already experienced in Opus IV, V and VI and something that seems to have become the new Amouage hallmark.

Downline: The show was somewhat good and at times funny, the band is technically perfect, some of their greatest songs still rock but, what seems to have become their new path is not completely convincing and feels a bit uninspired. Worthy the full price ticket? No, at least not to me. I'll check their next live shows on youtube first.

Note: The show lasted a good 11 hours (quite a perfomrace for a band) and the sound projection was awesome!

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Von Eusersdorff New York: Fragrances With No Frills.

Classic Patchouli

Notes: Bergamot, Black Patchouli, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood.

I completely fell for Classic Patchouli. A rich, deep and extremely dark take on the main theme that will mesmerize any traditionalist out there. The fragrance opens with a massive dose of earthy patch that immediately brings to mind of head shops, the 60s and the 70s and, while resulting extremely classic, it clearly shows there's something more going on. Vanilla and tonka break-in smoothering the general austerity while preserving the overall dark vibe of this fragrance. The composition gets warmer and deeper, meditative and incredibly comfortable with powdery nuances and creamy-ambery undertones. Addictive.

If you like Reminescence Patchouli or Les Nereides Patchouli Antique, you ought to yourselves to try this. Nothing groundbreaking but so nicely executed to result incredibly irresistible. The perfect comfort scent. Adore!



Rating: 8/10

Classic Myrrh

Notes: Incense, Cedarwood, Petit Grain, Guaiac Wood, Violet, Sandalwood, Black Patchouli, Vetiver, Cistus.

Honesty and no frills seem to be the key words to read Von Eusersdorff's creations and Classic Myrrh completely fits this bill.

More about cedar and incense, than exactly myrrh, CM has a strong deja-vu vibe but feels, somewhat, more reassuring than boring. Smells more like antiques than churchy and in this context, it speaks of childhood memories, of grandma's personal drawers and the first days of autumn when everything is rust colored. There's a nice violet-incense accord that made me think about a gentler version of Maria Candida Gentile's Exultat. Dry, sort of austere yet somewhat warm and comfortable. Intensely woody yet not as harsh and screechy as most of the fragrances in the same vein. Easy to wear, solid and definitely recommended. An extremely nice masculine and a mandatory check for any frankincense aficionado.



Rating: 7.5/10

Classic Vetiver

Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Lemon, Geranium, Elemi, Peppercorn, Cedarwood, Black Patchouli, Vetiver.

Another solid release by those amazing guys at Von Eusersdorff New York. Classic Vetiver makes a terrific option for anyone into lighter, fresh, citrusy-green takes on the main theme. Old-fashioned yet with modern facets (the peppery undertone). Easy to wear, very aromatic and Incredibly long lasting. If you like I Profumi Di Firenze Vetiver De Java and Terre D'Hermes, give this a chance. Nice but somewhat dull.



Rating: 6.5-7/10

Classic Mimosa

Notes: Bergamot, Neroli, Green Leaves, Mimosa, Violet, Rose, Marine Notes, Musk, Orange Blossom, Vanilla.

Classic Mimosa is probably my least favorite from this line. Von Eusersdorff's take on this ingredient is green, light and enhances the transparent aspect of this flower with a not so pleasant marine/aquatic accord. The mimosa is paired with a violet note which seems to dominate the fragrance throughout with a sort of misleading result. Quite long lasting but not particularly interesting.



Rating: 5.5/10

For further informations on Von Eusersdorff check their website at http://www.voneusersdorff.com/

JAR Jardenia: Funghi Porcini.

Anyone who has experienced JAR (both the fragrances and the store), knows what I'm talking about. JAR is not a perfume shop, it's a secret club. Their compositions are far beyond being just fragrances, they're more like the car crashes in Ballard's Crash. Perversely fascinating, kinda morbid and definitely out of this world.

Jardenia is one of those fragrances that, unless you want to be called names, you can't say you don't like it. Well, I actually can't say that I completely like it.

The opening accord is absolutely stunning in its simple complexity. A huge indolic gardenia note of immense beauty strikes as a pyrotechnical effect. It initially kisses you then shakes your head to finally leave you speechless for its unquestionable charme. Almost an hologram in it's vibrant/vivid reproduction of the real flower. The opening phase endures for almost one hour to then introduce a mushroom note that smells a whole lot like "funghi porcini".  Yes, fresh cut funghi porcini. The fragrance still works and morphes into a challenging phase that's typical of many other deliveries from the house. At the three hours mark, the gardenia slightly recedes while the mushroom note slowly takes over to the point of becoming absolutely dominating for the rest of the fragrance' evolution. After ten plus hours it gets definitely exasperating and, at least to me, nausea inducing. Scrub time.

Ok, Jardenia definitely makes a strong impression and it's one of those fragrances that you encounter every once in 100 years but I would wear it? No. This stuff is not for me but, if you like unique fragrances, this is something to surely check out.

In the end, I loved the opening and detested the drydown.

One more point: I strongly believe that in this specific case the "exclusivity aurea" of the brand plays a particularly relevant part. I'd be genuinely curious to play the blind game with Jardenia and see if most of the people who love this fragrance, would have the same impressions if they smelled this stuff blind. Don't get me wrong, the quality is there, that's unquestionable but I'd really love to know other's people reactions to a blind test...

Rating: 9/10 (for the audacity)

              6.5/10 (final result)

              7.5-8/10 (overall)

Roja Dove: An excursion into his masculines.

Diaghilev

As usually with Roja Dove's fragrances, Diaghilev as well is strongly inspired by big fragrances of the past. In this case, the old-fashioned chypre structure, comes directly from huge compositions such as Mitsouko and Sous Le Vent. A wonderful fizzy citrusy opening evolving into an extremely refined floral middle phase to then turn into a fresh and rich mossy vetiver drydown which is not so distant from the latest phases of Onda Extrait.

The level of appreciation of Diaghilev is strongly related to one's personal preference towards extremely classic fragrances. That said, if you like the genre, this is one of the best chypres currently available on the market. 

Caution: This review is for the recently launched "parfum" strength which sells for something like 750 pounds.

Rating: 9/10

Vetiver 

Roja Dove's Vetiver will probably not strike as the most original vetiver soliflore composition around but, despite that, it is still a big winner. 

The typical sparkling green opening that lately evolves into an extremely solid woody/mossy vetiver-centered base, is closer to vintage Guerlain Vetiver and Racine than to, say, Sycomore or Route Du Vetiver. It's clean yet plush, polite yet potent and, most of all, incredibly well blended. The vetiver here has a fresh-woody quality (most likely the haitian type), with the typical rubbery undertone and together with oakmoss gives birth to an endless old-fashioned drydown that goes on for 15+ hrs. In this context, Roja Dove is responsible of one of the most tenacious vetiver-centered composition available on the market. 

If you like your vetiver to be simple but unquestionably blended with top quality ingredients and, as long as you don't expect something groundbreaking or revolutionary, your search for the ultimate high-end vetiver could stop here. Terrific.

Rating: 8-8.5/10

Scandal pour Homme 

A classic fougere with good quality ingredients. No more, no less. While I definitely love the genre, at the same time, I don't see any good reason to recommend Scandal Pour Homme over the thousands of cheaper alternatives we can still have easy access to.



That said, it definitely smells good but it's not as complex and "intriguing" as I expected.



A minor word on the name: "Scandal Pour Homme". Sounds like a cheap drugstore masculine a-la "Arrogance".

Rating: 7/10

Aoud

Ok, we got it: Rose and Oud do great together. Can we move on now?



Roja's Oud is a disappointment to say the least. Yes, the quality is there but, at these prices, this is a very basic condition. The problem is that, besides the quality of the ingredients, there's little (if nothing) else. The same, now stereotyped, rose-oud iteration we've experienced way too many times. JHAG Midnight Oud, Dior Oud Ispahan, Portrait Of A Lady, Dark Rose, countless Montales and countless others original rose-oud oils. Smells good but it's boring to death.



You have 1k dollars to spare and want something really exclusive? Get a selection of real oud oils.

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Danger Pour Homme

A boring masculine with no particular twists. The quality is absolutely there but, at these prices, it's not enough. More "stereotyped" than "classic".

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Designer New Releases: Consumers Revolt!

Calvin Klein Shock Fro Him

Familiarity with too many trivial perfumes have probably brought, as a result, an increase in our level of tolerance. In front of a barely pesentable fragrance, we're all ready to declair it a winner. In this context, Shock is not as outrageously bad as most of the Calvin's Klein's latest releases but it's still widely far from being attention worthy. In an ideal world where fragrance should simply smell good, this would be just a non-descrypt concoction of aromachemicals aimed to smell of something.

In the real world, this is just a non-descrypt concoction of aromachemicals aimed to smell of something. Ok, It's not sporty, it doesn't come in a frosted bottle and it's probably the best fragrance by Calvin Klein in years but it's not enough. Clearly targeted to younger crowds but I don't see why teenagers should burn their money in such a crap. Seal your wallets. Dreadful bottle.

Rating: 4/10

Givenchy Play Sport 

Probably not as vile as other more popular fragrances who play the same (trite) citrus-aromatic theme but nowhere close being vaguely interesting. Aseptic, cold, generic. Would probably suck as well if released as a cheap shampoo. Frosted bottle included.

Rating: 4/10

Marc Jacobs Bang Bang

Anytime I see this fragrance on a shelf I can't help myself from reading its name as Gang Bang, I'm sorry. Bang Bang, it's called Bang Bang! Whatever...

I would classify Bang Bang as an attempt to compose a fresh "sandalwood" but considering the current restrictions on raw materials I sould probably say it results more like a sandalwood wannabe. That being said, Bang Bang is far from being interesting. Probably not as bad as the majority of modern masculines around yet extremely far from catching my attention.

Somewhat fresh, citrusy and woody with a remrakable amount of clean musk. As Luca Turin would say "pleasures written in six-point type".

Rating: 5.5-6/10

Dsquared2 Potion 

One of the best designer releases of the last couple of years. Calm down, don't get too excited, Potion is pretty decent but still far from being groundbreaking or full bottle worthy. Basically this is a spicy-woody fragrance laying on a patchouli/amber base with an overall incensey vibe that brings to mind of early 2000 releases by Gucci (e.g. Gucci Pour Homme I) or, for other aspects, even Dirty English by Juicy Couture.

Moderately sweet, bold but not overpowering and far from the typical sporty approach of most of todays masculines. If you're on a budget but you want to avoid smelling like anybody else, this is a very presentable alternative. Dsquared is quickly becoming one of the most decent designer brands of the past few years. 

Downside: even if not overdone, the fragrance suffers from the usual woody amber base that's typical of way too many modern fragrances (either niche or designer).

Rating: 7/10

Martin Margiela (Untitled) L'Eau

The original Untitled in a more Eau De Cologne-like interpretation. Still green with loads of citruses and a slight minty vibe. Sublte floral patterns and a fresh-woody base serve as nice refinements. If you like the Jardins series by Hermes or any fresh and clean type of fragrance, you'll probably dig this...

A fine summer scent that's decent and pretty well executed but probably not particularly interesting or outstanding...

Rating: 6.5/10

Diesel Loverdose 

MEH! The typical modern designer feminine. Take a small part of Alien (the jasmine) plus some Lolita Lempicka EDP (anise, licorice, woods, vanilla), plus the usual fruity vibe and a HUGE woody-amber base. Et voilà. Overly sweet, disturbingly synthetic, cheap. 

Fragrances like this should be banned for people older than 14.

Money burned.

Rating: 3/10

Etat Libre D'Orange Philippine Houseboy: much ado about nothing.

If for several aspects, Eldo's choices when it comes to marketing, may result silly, immotivately provocative and even a tad puerile, on the other hand I find their playfulness to be somehow refreshing and uplifting in a sector that is taking itself too seriously. In front of pompous brands clamining mythical historical heritages, high-sounding names and immotivaded promises of exclusivity, I prefer Eldo's almost situationists approach hands down.

That being said, this time I'm not convinced. Philippine Houseboy (aka Fils De Dieu, Dur Riz et Des Agrumes) is an average quality spicy oriental with no particular twists. It opens with a slightly dissonant accord of citruses and vanilla to turn quickly into a creamy yet moderately sweet spicy-vanillic base with an overal coconut vibe. Bad? Not really but way too far from Eldo's countless outstanding deliveries...

Rating: 6/10

Vetivers Pt.5 (A Bunch of Suckers)

Hermes Terre D'Hermes EDT

I know, I'm swimming against the stream here!

Great concept, banal / conventional execution. It smells exactly as it's supposed to smell: the mass market version of Bigarade Concentree. A JC Ellena  self rip-off! 

Vetiver, grapefruit/orange, woody and peppery notes. It honestly smells good, but it's not as groundbreaking as they want us to think. Overloaded with Iso E Super.

A crowdpleaser!

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Montale Vetiver De Sables

A vetiver disaster! A generic, derivative and unrefined fresh composition of absolutely no interest. Hints of vetiver on a loud mahogany base. Vetiver Des Sables moves in a very crowded territory without the ability to stand out. Unneeded.

Rating: 4.5/10

Armani Privè Vetiver Babylone

A sutble creamy vetiver accord surrounded by green notes and a crispy citrus that's quite pleasant but far from being unique and justifying the outrageous price tag. At this prices I expect excellence, sorry. Yet another uninteresting woody-citrus.

Rating: 5/10

Montale Red Vetyver 

Let me say that being myself a vetiver freak, after all the fuss I've heard about this fragrance, my expectations while approaching Red Vetyver were maybe too high but, as a matter of fact, I've been disappointed. At the same time I see why this fragrance counts many supporters around. 

Red Vetyver shares more than one single similarity with Terre D'Hermes (a fragrance I don't love). While they quite differ in the opening where Red Vetyver adds some extra richness to the simple peppery-citrusy formula of TdH, and shows the unmistakeable Montale's hallmark with some (let's say) gourmandic hints, they become totally alike in the drydown. In this phase they share the same slight harshness, the same vetiver/woods combo, the same allure. I'm pretty sure that If you carefully look at them you'l be able to find more differencies and (maybe) prefer one over the other. Me? I didn't like the cheaper version (TdH) I don't see why I should like the expensier...

Tenacious lasting power and good projection (as usual in Montale's fragrances).

Rating: 6.5/10

Tauer Vetiver Dance

Flowery vetiver with woody/resinous undertones. Interesting (challenging) opening where Tauer shows his incredible mastery in taking the distance from the usual initial accord of many vetivers introducing a weird green-herbaceous element that leans towards a salty/metallic feel, yet the fragrance is not completely satisfying. Powerful, solid and original but I prefer drier compositions when it comes to vetiver.

Rating: 6.5/10

Memo Moon Safari

Alert! Alert! Alert! Designer in disguise...Alert! 

Moon Safari was suggested to me as a vetiver prominent composition but all I got is a citrusy EDC type of stuff with an overall generic vibe. Dries down to a sweeter tonka base with a faint vetiver note...Disappointing.

Rating: 3/10