Nasomatto Pardon: Gualtieri Has a Sore Throat

Notes: Floral Notes, Magnolia, Chocolate, Tonka Bean, Cinnamon, Agarwood, Sandalwood.

Pardon opens with a blast of synthetic oud a-là Montale joined by a chocolate accord and a considerable amount of tonka beans and cinnamon. It immediately reminds of Gualtieri's previous Duro and, for a few aspects, of Guerlain's L'Insant Extreme but where the former introduces leather and the latter shows the typical sweet vanilla base of many Guerlains, Pardon is joined by a strong woody/incensey base, floral patterns and an overall resinous-ambery vibe.

While Pardon is far from evoking the typical image of a mannered dandy, at the same time is not as loud and "deafening" as other deliveries from this house. Sort of a Nasomatto with a sore-throat. Don't get me wrong, Pardon remarks its presence very clearly but it doesn't cross the border of vulgarity. Nice sillage and great lasting power.

Overall I'd classify Pardon as a very contemporary, trendy gourmand that while being quite enjoyable and not particularly juvenile, it won't surely leave a trace. In the meantime, enjoy your bottle as this is probably one of the most succesful deliveries from this house.

Note for people leaving in the US: Nasomatto is much more cheaper in Europe (it sells for $125/138 against the usual $168) so you may consider buying it from an european reseller. Shipment fees? You can bypass this by simply joining some friends and place a cumulative order...

Rating: 7/10

Dior Leather Oud: you stink so good!

Leather and Oud together! Two of the most potentially challenging notes in perfumery paired together with the addition of an HUGE amount of animalistic notes (mainly civet), beeswax, other woods and birch. Leather Oud is definitely impressive with its bold and intense aroma. As a friend explained me, the oud here is mainly oudwood which is extremely different from the oil because it lacks the usual burnt-sugar and medicinal vibe. It smells strongly woody, dark, incredibly deep and smoky. Absurd amounts of animalic leather and civet with the addiction of birch, provide extra power and a skanky feel that is surely not intended for anyone who's looking for an easy-wear. Honey/beeswax play as a substantial refinement expecially when smelling the fragrance form a distance. 



While Leather Oud can surely be considered as a modern composition, at the same time it clearly shows many chrisms of classic french perfumery (its boldness, the strong animalic presence, and a certain "dirty" vibe that we very rarely find in todays masculines). Incredible projection and lasting power. Insanely powerful.

I've to be honest: I didn't expect such a challenging fragrance from Dior. Leather Oud is stunningly beautiful and a true candidate to become the most solid alternative to the laundered age.



Note: Thanks god this has nothing to share with the obnoxious concoction of chemicals that is Montale's Aoud Leather.

Rating: 8.5-9/10

Humiecki And Graef Blask: WTF (what's that face?)

I love bizarre, challenging, weird, unpretty, frankeinstein type of fragrances but I'm having an hard time in describing Blask. At H&G they only list 4 notes: Walnut, Red Wine accord, Oud and Bay Leaf and, basically, I don't get any of them....



Here's what I get: Violet (sweet, srort of candied violet petals they put on top of Marron Glace), no wine but more like the typical fermented aroma of the "must" (again sweet). Oud? well, ohm...uhm..ohhh..naaa (?!?!???). There's surely something resinous and woody during the drydown but I probably wouldn't call it oud. Bay Leaf? There's an aromatic, slightly pungent note that works like an ultrasonic whisper...could it be the Laurel? If it's the Bay Leaf it's nowhere similar to the real thing...Some generic parfumey things like mixed flowers (???) show up throughout. 



On top of all this you have to add a huge amount of weirdness provided by what to me are obscure ingredients. Pretty challenging indeed and not exactly what I usually define as "wearable", yet somehow intriguing. Anyone who tend to use the phrase "I never smelled something like this" too often, they should probably test Blask.



Rating: 8/10 (just because it's so daring)

Heeley, 3 New Fragrances in Extrait De Parfum Strength

Agarwoud

Extrait De Devotion, Serenity, Eagle, Prayer, Space, Meditation, Temple, Prince, Siddartha, Gold, Dark, Wood, Forest, Power, Mind, Fertility, Mist, Rising, Control, Wealth, Poverty, Spirit, Forever....

L'Amandiere

Extrait De Spring, Clear, Joy, Air, Blossom, Growth, Orchard, Almonds, Pretty, Morning, Green, Grass, Silver, Dew, Mayflowers, Bluebells, Trees, Pretty, Wild Violets, Hyacinths, Jasmine, Faith, Light, Night, day, Love...

Bubblegum Chic

Extrait De Glamour, Pink, Passion, Lips, Mouth, Soft, Warmth, Omniverous, Sparkle, Appetite, Forbidden, Fun, Fatale, Fruit, Desire, Smile, Sweet, Skin, Shining, Intoxicate, Insatiable, Girls.

Being myself very fond of many of the Heeley's creations I was so excited in discovering that he was personally introducing 3 new fragrances so I immediately checked them out! What a disappointment!!!

When I first saw this new line by Heeley I really got excited to see he finally decided to introduce in the market three new fragrances in extrait de parfum diluition. I've always been a "fan" of many of his previous fragrances such as Cuir Pleine Fleur, Sel Marin and Iris De Nuit but longevity has always been an issue, so seeing these extraits made me think about something even more satysfying. Last but not least, my curiosity to smell Heeley's take on oud was definitely genuine. This is to say that I was really well disposed towards this new launches and I was sure to smell something brilliant, original and unique.

Agarwoud

I got the three samples together with an informative brochure and I decided to start with Agarwoud (Agarwoud?? I had to double check it wasn't a typo). Looking at the inspirational words I see "Siddartha", "Extrait De Devotion", "Control", "Poverty"...I started getting suspicios. Ok, let's smell it...

Yet another iteration of the rose/oud combo? Really??? Ok, calm down. Rumours wants that this composition has been on the making for more than four years, so at the time we weren't yet overwhelmed by the oud overkill and James Heeley was probably not aware of the huge amount of oud compositions that in a few years would have over crowded the market.

Agarwoud smells like the basic structure of many western oud-centered compositions. It's not as boombastic and dark as Black Aoud and the rose note is definitely more restrained. It's not refined and opulent as Epic Woman. It doesn't have the gourmandic twist of Red Aoud...it's just oud and rose laying on an ambery base. Minimalistic (as many of the Heeley's previous compositions), moderately powerful (considering is an extrait), honestly crafted but not particularly interesting.

Overall Agarwoud smells fine but it arrived on the market a bit too late.

As a friend used to say: "What's... Agarwoud? It wood if it could."

Rating: 6.5/10


L'Amandiere

L'Amandiere is Part Cuir Pleine Fleur (without the leather), part The Unicorn Spell, part Domenico Caraceni 1913. A violet / rose / almond concoction with green undertones. Another one??? My problem with the new Heeley's Extrait De Parfums is that they're definitely well crafted but boringly derivative. They really add nothing on the table.

Rating: 6/10


Bubblegum Chic

Bubblegum Chic knocked me down. Between the "inspirational words" I read "pink", "extrait de glamour", "passion", "lips", "appetite", "fatale"...I'm loosing my patience. Bubblegum Chic is clearly marketed as feminine and my point is this: how is it possible in 2011 to use such trite commonplaces to describe a feminine fragrance? Please someone tell me. It looks like Mr Heeley committed the writing of the presentation of his new fragrances to the cast of "Sweet Sixteen". Not to talk about the fragrance that is a boring tuberose / jasmine composition with an exasperating fruity-bubbllegum effect. As per Agarwoud you can have plenty of better options at any price if you want a tuberose centered composition (Tubereuse Criminelle, Carnal Flower, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Histoires De Parfums Tubereuse 1 and 3, Fracas, First, Madame Rochas... to name a few).

Tuberose for Barbie.

Rating: 5/10 (just because I'm a good boy)

Histoires De Parfums Edition Rare: Petroleum

Petroleum is pretty bizarre indeed being entirely built and conceived on juxtapositions. Resinous and intense but at the same time sort of fresh and "ozonic", deep and obscure but surrounded by aldehydic notes, dark and animalic yet "clear" and somehow light. All the elements are handled in an almost "unseen" way. The oud/rose combo is nowhere similimar or somehow close to any of the previous interpretations of the accord, It's amphasized in its woody freshness avoiding the burnt-sugar and medicinal effect. Rose is detectable but masterfully blended with the rest. Deepness is provided by a consistent dose of resinous notes while civet juxtaposed to aldehydes and ozonic hints gives birth to a destabilizing and pleasantly dissonant accord during the musky/ambery drydown. The base. This is the real point of strength of Petroleum.

Petroleum is not just wearable, is extremely wearable and a true standout. The fragrance has a nice projection but it never become overwhelming or claustrophobic. It has a remarkable presence but, fortunately, is not overpowering as I expected. 

Lately I've noticed a mineral quality to it that adds even more complexity. Surely a winner for me and among the best releases of the year but I believe this is going to be a polarizing fragrance because of its ozonic undertones which, together with aldehydes, create a bizarre juxtaposition with the rest. Paradoxically there's no challenging power coming from the supposed petrol note (which is definitely more mineral/natural smelling than the gasoline-like accord of, let's say, Fahrenheit, Nostalgia or even Knize Ten). The ozonic aspect, instead, adds a slightly weird and destabilizing nuance that may result off-putting to someone. IMO it perfectly blends with the rest adding a compelling, sort of off-centre, aspect.

Overall Petroleum has a very distinctive character and, just like many of the HDP compositions, it perfectly achieves an incredible balance between traditional perfumery and modernity. Full bodied but somehow weightless.

Rating: 8.5/10