Guest Reviewer Of The Day: Diamondflame

Diamondflame was a scholar who gave up a lucrative career in accountancy for a more spiritually enriching one in the healthcare frontline. A self-professed Renaissance man with myriad interests, he is as likely to be found examining the facets of a diamond as he is in a sweaty ring, bareknuckle sparring. He has contributed over 500 reviews on Basenotes and posts regularly on Houzz, an interior design and decorating site. 

“Life is full of beauty. If only one knows where to look...” probably sums up his philosophy towards life. Little surprise fragrance appreciation came right up his alley.

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel: Faded, But Not Forgotten.

The opening is brutal - a straight jab to the nose that makes your eyes water with its pungent combination of citrus, petitgrain, clary sage and violet leaf notes. Dark green and unforgivingly bitter, the first few minutes will have you gasping in a chokehold till the boy in you cries out "uncle!" and taps out. The man however toughs it out till the scent relaxes its iron grip.

The reward? A few great hours of complex olfactory aura that oscillates between soapy clean freshness, subdued green florals and the earthy dampness of mossy undergrowth. There is a certain underlying warmth, somewhat coumarinic in feel, holding the elements together by lending a touch of roundness to what could have been a highly angular composition. No doubt the ingredients are synthetic but the brilliant composition more than made up for it; Grey Flannel smells far better than it has any right to be, almost like an expensive niche or bespoke. Suave and rather distinguished, this masculine aromatic floral punches well above its weight.

Grey Flannel fits elegantly like a well cut suit and offers no apologies for its sharply tailored virility. It bears none of the friendly opening notes that buyers, especially the younger ones, love in modern top-loaded fragrances. Since 1976 it continues to sport the utilitarian looks of a supermarket housebrand with its non-descript deep green glass bottle.

In a field populated by calone bombs, sugary confections and cotton candies, Grey Flannel's shadowy green profile is the bitter shot of absinthe that distinguishes the men from the boys. Now that the average attention span of consumers has shrunk to that of three year-olds, Grey Flannel will likely remain a hidden gem, known only to the initiated few with discerning tastes. I pray it remains so, faded perhaps but never forgotten.

Notes:

lemon, galbanum, petitgrain, violet leaf, clary sage, rose, geranium, cedar, oakmoss, tonka bean

Quality *****

Wearability ***

Projection/Sillage ****

Longevity ****

Value for money *****

Overall Rating: 9/10

Review courtesy of Diamondflame.

Overlooked Classics Pt.1 (The Masculines)

Guerlain Coriolan

Coriolan is definitely overlooked. Maybe because It's not aimed to wow you, it's not groundbreaking, it's not trendy or modern but let me tell you it is extremely solid. A dry woody chypre with a bittersweet character. Sharp and bitter in the opening with green citruses joined by juniper, various herbs and peppery hints, mossy/woody with leather refinements and subtle floral patterns in the outstanding drydown (which is the real point of strength of this composition). Patchouli and some vetiver reinforce the overall classic quality. 



Serious and classy. Yet another "reliable" fragrance by Guerlain. 



Rating: 7.5-8/10

Estee Lauder Lauder For Men

Lauder Fer Men sits somewhere between a spicy fougere and a citric chypre. At a first sniff it could be easily dismissed as its classic structure may brings to mind of many fragrances of the same genre/period, but if you go deeper you'll discover an outstanding composition that, through the usual chrisms of the 80's powerhose style, is able to create its own language made of floral patterns, green notes and slight animalic nuances. An overall aromatic aspect is clearly reamrkable throughout the fragrance evolution and reaches the top of its relevance when the green tobacco note starts to play. 



Overall Lauder for Men is a fragrance that moves in two different territories for several aspects: It's strong and bold as an 80's powerhouse but at the same time takes the distance from the most typical compositions of the genre by introducing a few feminine elements in its structure (manily the florals). It settles halfaway between the american masculine style and the european taste (vanilla in the base). It's classified (and to me also smells) as a spicy fougere but it also has many characteristic of a chypre. A great composition.



Be careful with dosage as Lauder For Men can easily turn into Louder For Men.



Rating: 8/10

Gianfranco Ferre for Man

I blind bought a 125ml bottle of Ferre For Man just because a very good friend of mine (did I say Lana Lool?) was absolutely enthusiastic about this fragrance and as I hold in high regard this man (for his countless values) I went for this purchase with no hesitation.



I've to admit it took for me a while to fully appreciate this composition as the opening notes (mainly bergamot and lavender) are not among the best examples of a "catchy opening". They're kind of edgy and too acidic but fortunately they quickly evolve into an amazing fougère made of woods, leather, tobacco, vetiver and floral patterns. Elegant, extremely complex and refined but absolutely not affected as it gathers together more than a single aspect of the 80's powerhouse style. Don't get me wrong, Ferre For Man is not as powerful/overwhelming as many other fragrances of the same genre but, just for that, it can represent a terrific alternative for anyone who's in the mood for a lighter fougere which still shows a considerable amount of testosterone.



As a matter of fact, Ferre For Man rapidly became one of my favourite fragrance in the vintage designer's range being a fantastic example of a complex masculine. Great lasting power, good sillage, remarkable personality. Quality stuff. A great all-rounder, an all time favourite.



Rating: 8.5/10

Loewe Pour Homme / Loewe Para Hombre

A classic and refined aromatic fougere the goes in the same direction as Tuscany per Uomo. A green aromatic opening with the usual lavander/citruses accord joined by bitter herbs and geranium. Oakmoss and vetiver make their appearance just right after enhancing the "classicism" of this composition. Compared to other similar fragrances of the period, Loewe Para Hombre is definitely more restrained and mannered and focuses on the fresh aspect of its components. Light, easy to wear and well crafted. No surprise.



If you like vintage fougeres but you're not into powerhouse, go for it.



Rating: 7/10

Loewe Esencia Pour Homme

A civilized powerhouse. Sounds like an oxymoron? Try and see. Leather, green and herbaceous notes, pine, artemisia and lavender surrounded by a remarkable soapy vibe and laying on the usual musky/mossy base. An extremely elegant chypre. Sort of Yatagan after an haircut.



Great projection, reasonable lasting power. 



Rating: 8/10

Geoffrey Beene Bowling Green

I bought Bowling Green for 10$ at a discount store. I never smelled it before and I just took it as I love Grey Flannel. What a surprise. It has a shiny / transparent opening with sparkling green notes, lemon and lavander (i also get juniper somewhere). After that it stays linear for quite a while to turn in the very end into a bloder spicy-woody-citrusy drydown (tones of cedarwood, be advised). This scent is quite intense, has a nice projection and some lasting power. Nothing really exceptional and for a few aspects it runs on the edge of cheapness but it smells definitely good and it's perfect for spring-summer time. Very Nice!



Rating: 7-7.5/10