Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle and Sarrasins: Who Said White Florals Suck?

Tubereuse Criminelle

As much as I love challenging fragrances, it took me several tests to completely get Tubereuse Criminelle. The first time I tried it (on paper) I immediately dismissed it as it was too camphoraceous, too thick and even a tad too loud. I decided it was not for me but, while visiting a major department store a few monthes later, I got a mouillette from an SA and, again, it immediately striked as too mentholated to my taste. The third and final time I got in contact with Tbereuse Criminelle was during a visit at Palais Royal in Paris where, after a purchase, I got a bunch of assorted Lutens samples including this one. When I got back home, I decided to give TC a test on skin and, with my suprise, something finally clicked.

Yes, the fragrance is still pretty thick and loud but there's something perversely fascinating in it. The opening mentholated accord is paired to a rubbery note and an overall vibe of turned flowers. There's something extremely wrong with Tubereuse Criminelle. So wrong to cross the border of mere ugliness and go far beyond towards something completely compelling. The fragrance slowly takes form and morphes into a magnificent floral concoction where tuberose is surely the main star but it's very well blended with other florals to create an extremely elegant composition. Surely not for everybody and still one of those fragrances that need to be properly tested before coming with a final virdict but, with some passion and patience, you will discover one of the closest thing to a masterpiece.

If we could compare fragrances to music, Tubereuse Criminelle would definitely be the most distant thing from pop-music.

Together with ISM and MKK, at the top of my favorite Lutens.

Rating: 9/10

Sarrasins

I'm usually not a big fan of white florals but some Lutens, Malle and JAR make extraordinary exceptions. Sarrasins is surely among these.

A word of caution: In my opinion Sarrasins is one of those fragrances that should be approached at a certain point of one's personal journey into fragrances. It's not one of those compositions that are easy to fully appreciate by everyone, expecially by those who haven't never related to white florals' indolic facet.

In fact, Sarrasins opens with a breathtaking accord of indolic jasmine that brings to mind of Tubereuse Criminelle. The similarity here is not to be found in the smell itself but in the challenging power that both fragrances deliver expecially during their initial phases. TC is about tuberose, Sarrasins is all about Jasmine but they're definitely both wowers.

After the initial assault, a fruity osmanthus note joins the party and together with a suedey presence turns the fragrance into an extremely elegant floral leather that continuely remarks its presence with its decadent beauty. Thick but not too loud, slightly gothic and a tad grotesque. Just beatiful. Agrees with purple velvet and a wan face.

Rating: 8.5/10

Amber: 5 Pillars

I Profumi Del Forte Versilia Vintage: Ambra Mediterranea

A magnificent concoction of top quality amber (among the best available on the market) and straight ahead frankincense with a considerable woody presence. Powerful, succulent, velvety, deep yet somehow crisp and enriched by sharpened details. The creme brulee of ambers. 

For anyone who's into amber and incense Ambra Mediterranea is a mandatory stop. T-E-R-R-I-F-I-C! Insanely powerful and potentially cloying, be careful with dosage.

Kudos to Mr.Duchaufour!

Rating: 9/10

Maitre Parfumeur Et Gantier: Ambre Precieux

Not so much to say about this marvellous creation beside that Ambre Precieux it's huge! If you like your amber to be straight ahead, classic and slightly spiced you've found your holy grail. Embracing, sweet but perfectly balanced, warm and comfortable, highly intoxicating and addicting. Simply one of the best amber around. A masterpiece, no suprises.

Rating: 9/10

Histoires De Parfums: Ambre 114

Amber is a dangerous territory where sweetness can easily become overwhelming turning a fragrance into an unbearable heaviness. The big point of strength of Amber 114 is its extremely balanced blend of spices/herbs and resionous notes (mainly benzoin) joined by woods and rose that make of this composition quite an easy wear in which sweetness is carefully tamed and dosed to become a side aspect. 

Overall I'd say that while Ambre 114 can be considered as one of the most complex and deep ambers around, at the same time it is outstanding for its incredible wearability and "lightness". 

These things don't happen by accident. Amazing Stuff!

Rating: 8.5-9/10

Serge Lutens: Ambre Sultan

The Ugly Duckling of ambers. Ambre Sultan's opening is quite destabilizing due to the juxtaposition of bitter/dry herbs and the usual, extremely rich and sweet, Sheldrake's hallmark. An overall effect that's somehow medicinal, bizarre and challenging...let me say "ugly". If you survive to the opening you will soon discover an incredibly satisfying amber accord that's absolutely magnificent for its beauty. At this point herbs perfectly blend with the rest and play as a necessary counterpart to the general sweetness. Luxurious, intense...immense. Together with Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Ambre Precieux, they fear no rivals.

Be careful with dosage, this stuff kills! Another Lutens monster!

Rating: 9/10

Parfum D'Empire: Ambre Russe

If you like your amber to be boozy in the opening and smoky/leathery in the drydonw with hints of incense, then you've probably found your holy grail. Warm, powerful, rich but extremely well balanced. Me? I stuck with the more classic Ambre Precieux or the herbal/medicinal Ambre Sultan.

Said that, this is still top quality stuff. Bravo to Marc-Antoine Corticchiato.

Rating: 8/10

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan: Fecal Attraction

Please everybody forgive me but I don't get any fecal, sweat, rancid, camel-like, disgusting kind of thing here. It's surely not a clean musc in the opening and can result quite challenging to someone (a lot of civet and castoreum) but it's awesome. This is MUSC as it should be (at least IMO). Not too rough or rude but neither polite and surely fascinating. Maybe it's because I generally don't like white muscs but I can't find a single weird thing in MKK. I simply like it from the beginning to the very end. Unfortunately I don't know many people who would wear Muscs Koublai Khan on a regular basis and if I'll ever meet one I'll make everything is possible to become at least friends. In the drydown it turns to be a bit cleaner and sweeter (rose) with loads of animalic notes that make sure that the scent doesn't get too polite. I don't see any particular complexity here but a magistrally and superbly crafted "kinda rough" musc. And really, I don't understand the post-coitum / orgiastic thing. If you smell like this after you had sex I'm Koublai Khan.

Rating: 9.5/10