Designer New Releases: Consumers Revolt!

Calvin Klein Shock Fro Him

Familiarity with too many trivial perfumes have probably brought, as a result, an increase in our level of tolerance. In front of a barely pesentable fragrance, we're all ready to declair it a winner. In this context, Shock is not as outrageously bad as most of the Calvin's Klein's latest releases but it's still widely far from being attention worthy. In an ideal world where fragrance should simply smell good, this would be just a non-descrypt concoction of aromachemicals aimed to smell of something.

In the real world, this is just a non-descrypt concoction of aromachemicals aimed to smell of something. Ok, It's not sporty, it doesn't come in a frosted bottle and it's probably the best fragrance by Calvin Klein in years but it's not enough. Clearly targeted to younger crowds but I don't see why teenagers should burn their money in such a crap. Seal your wallets. Dreadful bottle.

Rating: 4/10

Givenchy Play Sport 

Probably not as vile as other more popular fragrances who play the same (trite) citrus-aromatic theme but nowhere close being vaguely interesting. Aseptic, cold, generic. Would probably suck as well if released as a cheap shampoo. Frosted bottle included.

Rating: 4/10

Marc Jacobs Bang Bang

Anytime I see this fragrance on a shelf I can't help myself from reading its name as Gang Bang, I'm sorry. Bang Bang, it's called Bang Bang! Whatever...

I would classify Bang Bang as an attempt to compose a fresh "sandalwood" but considering the current restrictions on raw materials I sould probably say it results more like a sandalwood wannabe. That being said, Bang Bang is far from being interesting. Probably not as bad as the majority of modern masculines around yet extremely far from catching my attention.

Somewhat fresh, citrusy and woody with a remrakable amount of clean musk. As Luca Turin would say "pleasures written in six-point type".

Rating: 5.5-6/10

Dsquared2 Potion 

One of the best designer releases of the last couple of years. Calm down, don't get too excited, Potion is pretty decent but still far from being groundbreaking or full bottle worthy. Basically this is a spicy-woody fragrance laying on a patchouli/amber base with an overall incensey vibe that brings to mind of early 2000 releases by Gucci (e.g. Gucci Pour Homme I) or, for other aspects, even Dirty English by Juicy Couture.

Moderately sweet, bold but not overpowering and far from the typical sporty approach of most of todays masculines. If you're on a budget but you want to avoid smelling like anybody else, this is a very presentable alternative. Dsquared is quickly becoming one of the most decent designer brands of the past few years. 

Downside: even if not overdone, the fragrance suffers from the usual woody amber base that's typical of way too many modern fragrances (either niche or designer).

Rating: 7/10

Martin Margiela (Untitled) L'Eau

The original Untitled in a more Eau De Cologne-like interpretation. Still green with loads of citruses and a slight minty vibe. Sublte floral patterns and a fresh-woody base serve as nice refinements. If you like the Jardins series by Hermes or any fresh and clean type of fragrance, you'll probably dig this...

A fine summer scent that's decent and pretty well executed but probably not particularly interesting or outstanding...

Rating: 6.5/10

Diesel Loverdose 

MEH! The typical modern designer feminine. Take a small part of Alien (the jasmine) plus some Lolita Lempicka EDP (anise, licorice, woods, vanilla), plus the usual fruity vibe and a HUGE woody-amber base. Et voilà. Overly sweet, disturbingly synthetic, cheap. 

Fragrances like this should be banned for people older than 14.

Money burned.

Rating: 3/10

Vetivers pt.1 (Some Pillars)

Guerlain Vetiver 

Vetiver EDT (Vintage Formulation)

Not much to say about Guerlain's Vetiver as it's possibly the most popular and seminal vetiver based fragrance ever created. The vintage formula was loaded with oakmoss and tobacco that together with the main element created a deep and incredibly satisfying blend. Fresh yet somewhat dirty with the typical, slightly rough, barbershop vibe of certain fragrances of the same period. Always stated as the reference vetiver. Mandatory!

Rating: 10/10

Vetiver EDC

Quite rare. This was a lighter version of the original Vetiver emphasized on the citruses. Still plenty of oakmoss and with a strong "Eau De Guerlain" type of vibe. Perfect for anyone who enjoys heavy applications.

Rating: 8/10

Vetiver EDT (Current Formulation)

Re-launched in 2000. A "no spurprise"  linear composition that's at the same time classy, versatile, outstandingly wearable, contemporary, honest and solidly crafted.  A great all-rounder. The current formulation is kinda polished and toned down on both the oakmoss and the tobacco with an overall effect that's at the same time fresher but less distinctive than the vintage. Said that, this is still pretty darn good. Not exactly long lasting, though.

Rating:  7/10

Givenchy Vetyver

Surely not among the most easiest to find. Another no-surpise type of vetiver that's classic, simple and realiable! If you like it nutty and treated to a slight dose of aldehydes on top, this is possibly one of the best around. "Pur Excellance". Finally reissued in the Les Parfums Mythiques series together with a bunch of other classics from this marvellous house.

No desctription needed!

Rating: 9.5/10

Maitre Parfumeur Et Gantier Route Du Vetiver 

As a vetiver lover I've been encouraged many times to try Route De Vetiver (Vintage) and when I finally decided to face it I discovered an extremely compelling fragrance. RDV's opening is possibly one of the best representation of vetiver available on the market. Earthy, extremely bitter, wet. I never smelled vetiver's roots myself but I have the feeling that if you'd extract them from the ground after a couple of rainy days, they would smell exactly like RDV's opening. The drydown is incredibly woody and earthy, bold but not overpowering yet extremely masculine. Surely among the most uncompromising iterations of the rooty vetiver accord.

My little "disappointment" (not exactly the right word) comes with the refurmulated version that  tends to be similar to other masterpieces of the same family such as Sycomore. Don't get me wrong, the current Route De Vetiver is still an outstanding scent, but if you're already familiar with Sycomore or with the vintage formula, it may result somehow disappointing.

Rating: 9/10 (Vintage) 8/10 (Current)

Editions De Parfums Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire

Well, this is the apotheosis of the "masculine vetiver fragrance" concept! A SUBLIME composition that immediately jumps at the top of its genre together with other masterpieces such as Sycomore, Route Du Vetiver, vintage Guerlain and the Givenchy's. Vetiver Extraordinaire is a stark and edgy composition where  the usual bergamot/citrus opening is dried to the bone by sharp woody notes and a massive dose of dry leafy and sort of green vetiver. Add a nice quasi-soapy twist and here's a masterpiece. For hardcore vetiver lovers only. One of my favourites.

Rating: 9.5/10

Chanel Sycomore 

I won't spend many words on Sycomore as it deserves at least a try. This is an absolute masterpiece, one of a kind type of fragrance and should be a mandatory purchase for any true fragrance lover. An outstanding and superbly crafted, smoky yet fresh vetiver centered composition enriched by hints of incense and a considerable dose of sandalwood. The usual aldehydes/iris roots "signature" by Chanel is there but works subtly to provide the right amount of sophistication. Dry yet plush, immensely satisfying. Possibly the best. 

Rating: 10/10