Guest Reviewer Of The Day: Sugandaraja (Pt.2)

Today we go with the second contribution by one of my favourite perfumistos around: Mr Sugandaraja. For further informations on the author you migh want to check his previous article here.

Sugandaraja's new gift to Ner Profumo is

Cuir Ottoman: Iris With A Leather Fetish

I'm of the school of thought that when it comes to irises, there are two kinds: Iris Silver Mist, and everything else. Leaving his rooty majesty aside, the soft powdery accord familiar in a hundred fragrances ( and to a hundred-thousand noses through releases like Dior Homme ) is here tooled into the form of a blooming iris that's suede to the touch.

While, from what I understand, Parfum d'Empire was dragging out some hoary orientalist association with the late Turkish empire ( "Ottoman Leather" ), my English mind can't help but keep the word order intact and read it as a Leather Ottoman in the sense of being a small, upholstered foot-rest ( ottoman's other English meaning ), which it aptly resembles in mellowness. I can easily picture myself in full Romantic pipe-dream repose, feet up on an ottoman, smelling of Cuir Ottoman, and listening to a languorous work like this one.

In esse, that's what Cuir Ottoman is about for me: comfort. Leather is typically either a challenging note, or more commonly, not leather at all. Here a true new-shoe leather is supported by an enormous violet-iris accord ( placed between orris butter and violet candy ), a smooth balsamic facet, and a dark, fleshy jasmine that stays well in the background. No notes ever appear or disappear to my nose, its richness compensating for the static development. Throughout it has a certain chilled vaporous quality somewhere between Sarrasins and Caron's Pois de Senteur.

I'm not usually one to venture into the much vexed-about topic of fragrance and gender, but I will say this: if Cuir Ottoman was human, it would be Emma Peel in the leather cat suit, I'm quite sure. Take that as you will.

Rating: 8.5/10

Review courtesy of Sugandaraja. For other reviews by Sugandaraja click here

Amber: 5 Pillars

I Profumi Del Forte Versilia Vintage: Ambra Mediterranea

A magnificent concoction of top quality amber (among the best available on the market) and straight ahead frankincense with a considerable woody presence. Powerful, succulent, velvety, deep yet somehow crisp and enriched by sharpened details. The creme brulee of ambers. 

For anyone who's into amber and incense Ambra Mediterranea is a mandatory stop. T-E-R-R-I-F-I-C! Insanely powerful and potentially cloying, be careful with dosage.

Kudos to Mr.Duchaufour!

Rating: 9/10

Maitre Parfumeur Et Gantier: Ambre Precieux

Not so much to say about this marvellous creation beside that Ambre Precieux it's huge! If you like your amber to be straight ahead, classic and slightly spiced you've found your holy grail. Embracing, sweet but perfectly balanced, warm and comfortable, highly intoxicating and addicting. Simply one of the best amber around. A masterpiece, no suprises.

Rating: 9/10

Histoires De Parfums: Ambre 114

Amber is a dangerous territory where sweetness can easily become overwhelming turning a fragrance into an unbearable heaviness. The big point of strength of Amber 114 is its extremely balanced blend of spices/herbs and resionous notes (mainly benzoin) joined by woods and rose that make of this composition quite an easy wear in which sweetness is carefully tamed and dosed to become a side aspect. 

Overall I'd say that while Ambre 114 can be considered as one of the most complex and deep ambers around, at the same time it is outstanding for its incredible wearability and "lightness". 

These things don't happen by accident. Amazing Stuff!

Rating: 8.5-9/10

Serge Lutens: Ambre Sultan

The Ugly Duckling of ambers. Ambre Sultan's opening is quite destabilizing due to the juxtaposition of bitter/dry herbs and the usual, extremely rich and sweet, Sheldrake's hallmark. An overall effect that's somehow medicinal, bizarre and challenging...let me say "ugly". If you survive to the opening you will soon discover an incredibly satisfying amber accord that's absolutely magnificent for its beauty. At this point herbs perfectly blend with the rest and play as a necessary counterpart to the general sweetness. Luxurious, intense...immense. Together with Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Ambre Precieux, they fear no rivals.

Be careful with dosage, this stuff kills! Another Lutens monster!

Rating: 9/10

Parfum D'Empire: Ambre Russe

If you like your amber to be boozy in the opening and smoky/leathery in the drydonw with hints of incense, then you've probably found your holy grail. Warm, powerful, rich but extremely well balanced. Me? I stuck with the more classic Ambre Precieux or the herbal/medicinal Ambre Sultan.

Said that, this is still top quality stuff. Bravo to Marc-Antoine Corticchiato.

Rating: 8/10