Vetivers Pt.5 (A Bunch of Suckers)

Hermes Terre D'Hermes EDT

I know, I'm swimming against the stream here!

Great concept, banal / conventional execution. It smells exactly as it's supposed to smell: the mass market version of Bigarade Concentree. A JC Ellena  self rip-off! 

Vetiver, grapefruit/orange, woody and peppery notes. It honestly smells good, but it's not as groundbreaking as they want us to think. Overloaded with Iso E Super.

A crowdpleaser!

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Montale Vetiver De Sables

A vetiver disaster! A generic, derivative and unrefined fresh composition of absolutely no interest. Hints of vetiver on a loud mahogany base. Vetiver Des Sables moves in a very crowded territory without the ability to stand out. Unneeded.

Rating: 4.5/10

Armani Privè Vetiver Babylone

A sutble creamy vetiver accord surrounded by green notes and a crispy citrus that's quite pleasant but far from being unique and justifying the outrageous price tag. At this prices I expect excellence, sorry. Yet another uninteresting woody-citrus.

Rating: 5/10

Montale Red Vetyver 

Let me say that being myself a vetiver freak, after all the fuss I've heard about this fragrance, my expectations while approaching Red Vetyver were maybe too high but, as a matter of fact, I've been disappointed. At the same time I see why this fragrance counts many supporters around. 

Red Vetyver shares more than one single similarity with Terre D'Hermes (a fragrance I don't love). While they quite differ in the opening where Red Vetyver adds some extra richness to the simple peppery-citrusy formula of TdH, and shows the unmistakeable Montale's hallmark with some (let's say) gourmandic hints, they become totally alike in the drydown. In this phase they share the same slight harshness, the same vetiver/woods combo, the same allure. I'm pretty sure that If you carefully look at them you'l be able to find more differencies and (maybe) prefer one over the other. Me? I didn't like the cheaper version (TdH) I don't see why I should like the expensier...

Tenacious lasting power and good projection (as usual in Montale's fragrances).

Rating: 6.5/10

Tauer Vetiver Dance

Flowery vetiver with woody/resinous undertones. Interesting (challenging) opening where Tauer shows his incredible mastery in taking the distance from the usual initial accord of many vetivers introducing a weird green-herbaceous element that leans towards a salty/metallic feel, yet the fragrance is not completely satisfying. Powerful, solid and original but I prefer drier compositions when it comes to vetiver.

Rating: 6.5/10

Memo Moon Safari

Alert! Alert! Alert! Designer in disguise...Alert! 

Moon Safari was suggested to me as a vetiver prominent composition but all I got is a citrusy EDC type of stuff with an overall generic vibe. Dries down to a sweeter tonka base with a faint vetiver note...Disappointing.

Rating: 3/10

Montale's Aouds: A Bunch Of Winners!

Black Aoud

This is possibly the most popular creation in the Montale's range and, honestly, it deserves its status. One of the best masculine rose/oud combos around.



Black Aoud is basically all about rose and oud but it's far from being simplicistic or even bone-dry. Two of the most luxurious elements orchestrated to create an incredibly rich, complex, dark and compelling composition that while resulting extremely elegant, it's everything but mannered or affected. Wild, incisive and assertive just like a Lucio Fontana's painting: several cuts on canvas.

On skin, Black Aoud opens with a "scratchy" mix of extremely medicinal oud and a luxurious rose note that is one of the most interesting thing happened in contemporary perfumery and stays linear for almost 10 hrs (yes). It then starts to evolve introducing patchouli and hints of animalic leather while a resinous / musky base remarks its presence. With its incredible power, it projects for yards and lasts more than 24 hours. One spray on your neck and, believe me, you're done for the whole day. In this context Black Aoud it's not simply a purchase, it's more like an investment as a 100ml bottle is gonna last for your whole life. A head turner...Go ahead.



One more thing: to properly appreciate Black Aoud you have to say YES or NO, BLACK or WHITE as it leaves no room for "MAYBE" or "GREY"...



Rating: 8.5/10

Oud Cuir D'Arabie

This is breathtaking! Two of the strongest and potentially most challenging ingredients around mixed together with an awesome result. If you like oud and leather this is possibly one of the best takes around but be careful because this is not a fragrance for everybody. Oud Cuir D'Arabie is quite challenging and incredibly intense. The opening is almost arresting with a blast of animalic notes and oud (a-là Montale). In this phase the fragrance is skanky, unpretty and raunchy but it quickly evolves into a more conventional yet nonetheless fascinating blend of luxurious rose and leathery-tobacco laying on a resinous oud base. Brutal, intense and absolutely unpolite! 

You've to be in the right mood to wear Oud Cuir D'Arabie and make sure to be in the same mood for the whole day as it lasts over 12 hours. A must-try for anyone into Oud 27 or Dior's Leather Oud.



Rating: 8.5/10

Aoud Musk

Ok, this is a very loud fragrance but I love it. The opening is quite typical if you're already familiar with Montale's ouds. A strong medicinal/synthetic vibe and botloads of saffron joined by the distinctive Montale's hallmark: a prominent and harsh oud note! It gets even darker and warmer in the drydown with the addition of dark woods, vetiver and some musky-amber. Bold but never claustrophobic, tremendously woody and intense, it always claims your attention and everybody else's by surrounding everything with its dark warmness. Someone says it's similar to Nasomatto Duro, and for a few aspects I agree, but Aoud Musk results much more balanced and definitely not vulgar! Outstanding sillage and extraordinary lasting power. One spray on the neck and you're set for the whole day, night, late night and early moring after: be aware! Surely not for laidback type of guys!

Rating: 8.5/10

Dark Aoud

A stark, severe, bone dry and indeed dark fragrance that to the usual medicinal oud a-là Montale introduces some spices and sandalwood. From the beginning I realized that Dark Aoud was not supposed to really evolve but while it can be considered a quite linear composition it still has an outstanding personality and some depth. One of the most minimal releases by the french house whose reachness is achived by a single accord made out of a double dose of smoky agarwood and sandalwood. Insanely intense, nutty, dry, assertive. Monster projection, monster sillage and monster lasting power. One of the best fragrances in the Montale's range. Highly Recommended.



Rating: 8/10

Red Aoud

I'd split Montale's ouds in two different categories. On one side we have Oud Cuir D'Arabie and Black Aoud that stand out for their uniqueness and their challenging power. On the other side I'd put all the other compositions form the same line as they basically consist in micro-variations on the main theme.



Now, beside what you may personally like or not almost any of the "Aouds" by this house stand somehow on the same level (a good level with the exception of a few really unsuccessful releases such as Aoud Forest and Sliver Aoud). A more or less strong / medicinal oud note joined by a complementary bunch of other aromas to match different tastes.

My suggestion to anyone who like oud is to pick up a bunch of samples from the Montale's range and see which one fits your bill better. Once you've made your choice stick with one, or maximum two of them, as I can assure you that by that point you covered a lot of ground already.



That being Red Aoud is a micro-variation on the main theme taking a spicy (red-chili) direction. The oud note here is not as strong and powerful as in other perfumes from the same line, but still remarkably present. Hidden cacao hints provide some refinement and a sort of gourmandic quality. Nice and pleasant but I stick with Aoud Musk.

Rating: 7/10

Aoud Lime

For anyone (including myself) who find Black Aoud to be amazing but can't stand its huge rose note on the skin, Aoud Lime could be a valid alternative. To the typical Montale's opening has been added strident lime note that while lurking in the back it remarkably declares its presence working as an ultrasonic whisper. The strong medicinal aroma juxtaposed to the lime's acidic freshness is pretty weird indeed but absolutely compelling to my nose. After an hour or so, the rose note makes its appearance but it's not overwhelming or as prominent as it is in Black Aoud. It's instead well blended with patchouli and oud to create an amazing accord that is going to last for quite a while. In the meantime, in the very background, I still get the fascinating juxtaposition of lime but in this phase it sounds more like someone who's playing a thirteenth on the main accord in another room. Amazing.



Surely not an easy wear for its intensity and weirdness, but still a great composition. Well Done.

Rating: 7/10

Be A Good Boy: Go to Church. Liturgical Incense Inspired Fragrances Pt.2 (The Second Wave - Avignon Anyone?)

Calè Fragranze D'Autore - Preludio D'oriente

This is an hidden gem. One of those fragrances that fly under the radar but should definitely deserve much more attention.

Preludio D'Oriente moves in the same direction as other compositions a-la Avignon / Cardinal but where these two stay pretty linear in reproducing the liturgical frankincense, PDO is enriched by dark dry woods, leather and a tiny amount of oud. The opening is quite severe with a consistent incense note enhanced in its lemony aspect by astringent artemisia and citruses. Dry woods and leather join the party right away turning the fragrance into a darker and misterious composition that continuely moves on the thin line bewteen harshness and warmness while manitaining a perfect balance. Oud is subtle, toned down, restrained and used just to give some extra boldness to this marvellous composition.

Severe, dark and misterious. Top quality stuff!

Rating: 8.5/10

Mark Buxton - Around Midnight

This is not a bad one. It's quite ok, actually, but unfortunately is by Mark Buxton.I don't understand why some perfumeurs deliver better fragrances when they work for other brands instead of their own. When I think of Mr Buxton what comes to my mind is Comme Des Garcons 2, or the original Comme Des Garcons, or Ouarzazate, or CDG White. Masterpieces! Around midnight is a smoky, dark and minimalistic frankincense sfragrance (even if incense it's not listed among the notes). It's quite ok, if you don't know any better.

Sillage is barely acceptable, lasting power no more than 2-3 hours.

Rating: 6.5/10

Tauer - Incense Extreme

Perfumes form people that really knows how to make them! Incense Extreme is an extremely solid composition. Modern, consistent and elegant but at the same time descreet (expecially during the drydown). One of the most minimal incense creations yet among the most versatile. If you ever thought that Avignon was one of the most realistic "churchy" incenses, then try this one. The opening is breathtaking with a blast of pungent frankincense and petit grain surrounded by a remarkable woody vibe. Dry, almost harsh (cedar), but magistrally orchestrated to  result incredibly likeable. Green undertones paired off with coniferous hints add depth and charme.The drydown it's somehow "lighter", comfortable and close to the skin and it's when the Tauer's signature becomes unmistakeable. I still found Avignon to be much more original and emotional but Tauer's take on straight forward frankincense is surely a winner. Recommended.

Rating: 8/10

Montale - Full Incense

Montale goes Comme Des Garcons. Bolder than Avignon and slightly less minimalistic but still too literal. A rip-off.

Rating: 4/10

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke - MB03

MB03 smells good but we really needed another one like Avignon, Around Midnight, Cardinal? This is a good, dark church-y incense but, unfortunately, it's really too similar to the ones I mentioned which are cheaper and much easier to find.

Rating: 6/10

Olivier Durbano - Cristal de Roche (Rock Crystal)

Among the Avignon rip-offs the Durbano is probably the most original (which is an euphemism to say that is slightly less literal). The typical church-y cedarwood/incense accord is joined by some spices and other woody notes and it's paired to the usual balmy, sort of synthetic Durbano's signature. Nice but forgettable.

Rating: 6.5/10

Profumum - Olibanum

This is a real alternative to seminal scents like Avignon or Incense Extreme. Olibanum is great if you like smoky incense based fragrances but it's quite different form the well known antagonists. Together with the usual liturgic vibe Profumum introduced a sealing wax effect that make Olibanum irresistible. While the opening is still quite severe and chilling, the drydown turns dry-and-warm, meditative and comfortable. A terrific woody-green take on the main theme. Highly recommended!

Rating: 7.5/10