Showing posts with label Marc Jacobs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marc Jacobs. Show all posts

22.4.12

Designer New Releases: Consumers Revolt!


Calvin Klein Shock Fro Him

Familiarity with too many trivial perfumes have probably brought, as a result, an increase in our level of tolerance. In front of a barely pesentable fragrance, we're all ready to declair it a winner. In this context, Shock is not as outrageously bad as most of the Calvin's Klein's latest releases but it's still widely far from being attention worthy. In an ideal world where fragrance should simply smell good, this would be just a non-descrypt concoction of aromachemicals aimed to smell of something.

In the real world, this is just a non-descrypt concoction of aromachemicals aimed to smell of something. Ok, It's not sporty, it doesn't come in a frosted bottle and it's probably the best fragrance by Calvin Klein in years but it's not enough. Clearly targeted to younger crowds but I don't see why teenagers should burn their money in such a crap. Seal your wallets. Dreadful bottle.

Rating: 4/10

Givenchy Play Sport 


Probably not as vile as other more popular fragrances who play the same (trite) citrus-aromatic theme but nowhere close being vaguely interesting. Aseptic, cold, generic. Would probably suck as well if released as a cheap shampoo. Frosted bottle included.





Rating: 4/10


Marc Jacobs Bang Bang

Anytime I see this fragrance on a shelf I can't help myself from reading its name as Gang Bang, I'm sorry. Bang Bang, it's called Bang Bang! Whatever...

I would classify Bang Bang as an attempt to compose a fresh "sandalwood" but considering the current restrictions on raw materials I sould probably say it results more like a sandalwood wannabe. That being said, Bang Bang is far from being interesting. Probably not as bad as the majority of modern masculines around yet extremely far from catching my attention.

Somewhat fresh, citrusy and woody with a remrakable amount of clean musk. As Luca Turin would say "pleasures written in six-point type".

Rating: 5.5-6/10

Dsquared2 Potion 

One of the best designer releases of the last couple of years. Calm down, don't get too excited, Potion is pretty decent but still far from being groundbreaking or full bottle worthy. Basically this is a spicy-woody fragrance laying on a patchouli/amber base with an overall incensey vibe that brings to mind of early 2000 releases by Gucci (e.g. Gucci Pour Homme I) or, for other aspects, even Dirty English by Juicy Couture.

Moderately sweet, bold but not overpowering and far from the typical sporty approach of most of todays masculines. If you're on a budget but you want to avoid smelling like anybody else, this is a very presentable alternative. Dsquared is quickly becoming one of the most decent designer brands of the past few years. 

Downside: even if not overdone, the fragrance suffers from the usual woody amber base that's typical of way too many modern fragrances (either niche or designer).

Rating: 7/10

Martin Margiela (Untitled) L'Eau

The original Untitled in a more Eau De Cologne-like interpretation. Still green with loads of citruses and a slight minty vibe. Sublte floral patterns and a fresh-woody base serve as nice refinements. If you like the Jardins series by Hermes or any fresh and clean type of fragrance, you'll probably dig this...


A fine summer scent that's decent and pretty well executed but probably not particularly interesting or outstanding...

Rating: 6.5/10

Diesel Loverdose 

MEH! The typical modern designer feminine. Take a small part of Alien (the jasmine) plus some Lolita Lempicka EDP (anise, licorice, woods, vanilla), plus the usual fruity vibe and a HUGE woody-amber base. Et voilà. Overly sweet, disturbingly synthetic, cheap. 

Fragrances like this should be banned for people older than 14.

Money burned.

Rating: 3/10

30.1.12

Uncensored (They Suck So Bad) Pt.2


Caswell Massey Michelsen Bay Rum

Well, is this made out of clove? You can swear it! The opening left me perplexed for a few seconds as it smelled unpleasantly familiar but I couldn't exactly detect what it was about. Then a big clove started to materialize in front of me. Huge, brown and running towards me at 200mph speed...Clove is all I get, sorry! I quite like clove, but this interpreation is definitely crude and very (very) linear. If clove often brings to mind of dental offices, Massey's interpretation represents the whole dental treatment without anesthesia...Scary.



Rating: 3/10


Clinique Happy

Quite a total disaster! Hyper-Sweet citruses (expecially orange), green notes, woods. That's it. Simple and...cheap. A perfect fragrance for dutyfree shops in tiny little airports. Avoid.



Rating: 3/10

Linari Angelo Di Fiume

I've to resign to the fact that Linari's fragrances are anything but distinctive or original. With the exception of Acqua Santa and Fuoco Infernale which, IMO, are the stand outs of the line, the rest of the offering is made out of trite and derivative designer compositions sold at high-end niche prices. Angelo Di Fiume is Linar's take on gourmand and strikes as a cloying and banal vanille/caramel combo that smells like a puerile deodorant for 13 years old. The worst news is that it's by one of my favorite perfumers of the new school: Mr Buxton. 

Awful.



Rating: 2/10

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme

Luca Turin says: "Light Blue Pour Homme is like pleague and cholera at once". I'm not that caustic but this inoffensive and absolutely anonimous synthetic composition is surely far from evoking the mediterranean sex appeal represented in the original tv commercial. Boring and uninteresting.



Rating: 2/10

Versace Man Eau Fraiche

When I smell "Acqua Fresca" (italian for Eau Fraiche) I immediately start to think about Donatella's transgendered /mutated /botulinus-ized face. This image together with the smell of Eau Fraiche is killer. I never, ever liked Versace as a designer maison as it represents the apotheosis of the italian stereotype. Black unbuttoned silk shirts with gold crucifixes on tanned pumped chests. Come on, give us a break!




When it comes to "Eau Fraiche" there's nothing like San Pellegrino.

A few more words on the packaging that comes in a turquoise sort of lizard / crocodile skin box. Vulgar.



Rating: 2/10

Marc Jacobs Splash Cucumber

Inconsistent and inoffensive cologne. It smells like if you've dressed up your cucumber salad with a cheap and light floral perfume instead of olive oil and then  poured the salad bowl over your head.

Rating: 3/10