Roja Dove: An excursion into his masculines.

Diaghilev

As usually with Roja Dove's fragrances, Diaghilev as well is strongly inspired by big fragrances of the past. In this case, the old-fashioned chypre structure, comes directly from huge compositions such as Mitsouko and Sous Le Vent. A wonderful fizzy citrusy opening evolving into an extremely refined floral middle phase to then turn into a fresh and rich mossy vetiver drydown which is not so distant from the latest phases of Onda Extrait.

The level of appreciation of Diaghilev is strongly related to one's personal preference towards extremely classic fragrances. That said, if you like the genre, this is one of the best chypres currently available on the market. 

Caution: This review is for the recently launched "parfum" strength which sells for something like 750 pounds.

Rating: 9/10

Vetiver 

Roja Dove's Vetiver will probably not strike as the most original vetiver soliflore composition around but, despite that, it is still a big winner. 

The typical sparkling green opening that lately evolves into an extremely solid woody/mossy vetiver-centered base, is closer to vintage Guerlain Vetiver and Racine than to, say, Sycomore or Route Du Vetiver. It's clean yet plush, polite yet potent and, most of all, incredibly well blended. The vetiver here has a fresh-woody quality (most likely the haitian type), with the typical rubbery undertone and together with oakmoss gives birth to an endless old-fashioned drydown that goes on for 15+ hrs. In this context, Roja Dove is responsible of one of the most tenacious vetiver-centered composition available on the market. 

If you like your vetiver to be simple but unquestionably blended with top quality ingredients and, as long as you don't expect something groundbreaking or revolutionary, your search for the ultimate high-end vetiver could stop here. Terrific.

Rating: 8-8.5/10

Scandal pour Homme 

A classic fougere with good quality ingredients. No more, no less. While I definitely love the genre, at the same time, I don't see any good reason to recommend Scandal Pour Homme over the thousands of cheaper alternatives we can still have easy access to.



That said, it definitely smells good but it's not as complex and "intriguing" as I expected.



A minor word on the name: "Scandal Pour Homme". Sounds like a cheap drugstore masculine a-la "Arrogance".

Rating: 7/10

Aoud

Ok, we got it: Rose and Oud do great together. Can we move on now?



Roja's Oud is a disappointment to say the least. Yes, the quality is there but, at these prices, this is a very basic condition. The problem is that, besides the quality of the ingredients, there's little (if nothing) else. The same, now stereotyped, rose-oud iteration we've experienced way too many times. JHAG Midnight Oud, Dior Oud Ispahan, Portrait Of A Lady, Dark Rose, countless Montales and countless others original rose-oud oils. Smells good but it's boring to death.



You have 1k dollars to spare and want something really exclusive? Get a selection of real oud oils.

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Danger Pour Homme

A boring masculine with no particular twists. The quality is absolutely there but, at these prices, it's not enough. More "stereotyped" than "classic".

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Vetivers Pt.5 (A Bunch of Suckers)

Hermes Terre D'Hermes EDT

I know, I'm swimming against the stream here!

Great concept, banal / conventional execution. It smells exactly as it's supposed to smell: the mass market version of Bigarade Concentree. A JC Ellena  self rip-off! 

Vetiver, grapefruit/orange, woody and peppery notes. It honestly smells good, but it's not as groundbreaking as they want us to think. Overloaded with Iso E Super.

A crowdpleaser!

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Montale Vetiver De Sables

A vetiver disaster! A generic, derivative and unrefined fresh composition of absolutely no interest. Hints of vetiver on a loud mahogany base. Vetiver Des Sables moves in a very crowded territory without the ability to stand out. Unneeded.

Rating: 4.5/10

Armani Privè Vetiver Babylone

A sutble creamy vetiver accord surrounded by green notes and a crispy citrus that's quite pleasant but far from being unique and justifying the outrageous price tag. At this prices I expect excellence, sorry. Yet another uninteresting woody-citrus.

Rating: 5/10

Montale Red Vetyver 

Let me say that being myself a vetiver freak, after all the fuss I've heard about this fragrance, my expectations while approaching Red Vetyver were maybe too high but, as a matter of fact, I've been disappointed. At the same time I see why this fragrance counts many supporters around. 

Red Vetyver shares more than one single similarity with Terre D'Hermes (a fragrance I don't love). While they quite differ in the opening where Red Vetyver adds some extra richness to the simple peppery-citrusy formula of TdH, and shows the unmistakeable Montale's hallmark with some (let's say) gourmandic hints, they become totally alike in the drydown. In this phase they share the same slight harshness, the same vetiver/woods combo, the same allure. I'm pretty sure that If you carefully look at them you'l be able to find more differencies and (maybe) prefer one over the other. Me? I didn't like the cheaper version (TdH) I don't see why I should like the expensier...

Tenacious lasting power and good projection (as usual in Montale's fragrances).

Rating: 6.5/10

Tauer Vetiver Dance

Flowery vetiver with woody/resinous undertones. Interesting (challenging) opening where Tauer shows his incredible mastery in taking the distance from the usual initial accord of many vetivers introducing a weird green-herbaceous element that leans towards a salty/metallic feel, yet the fragrance is not completely satisfying. Powerful, solid and original but I prefer drier compositions when it comes to vetiver.

Rating: 6.5/10

Memo Moon Safari

Alert! Alert! Alert! Designer in disguise...Alert! 

Moon Safari was suggested to me as a vetiver prominent composition but all I got is a citrusy EDC type of stuff with an overall generic vibe. Dries down to a sweeter tonka base with a faint vetiver note...Disappointing.

Rating: 3/10

Vetivers Pt.4 (The Modern)

Lush Exhale

Exhale, accidentally layered with Inhale gave birth to what have become one of the most praised deliveries by the guys at Lush: Breath of God (originally released by the now extinct english firm B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful).

While Inhale represents the bright fruity side, Exhale is entirely built on a woody/earthy vetiver accord enhanced in its smokiness by tarry notes and some leather. The overall effect will make the joy of any hardcore vetiver lover who likes its vetiver dark, smoky and slightly animalic. Excellent.

Recently reintroduced in the Lush range as an oil.

Rating: 8.5/10

Lush Breath Of God 

Original Review April 2011:

Everybody suggested Breath Of God as one of the weirdest fragrances around and as I'm always very curious about strange perfumes I immediatley decided to try it. A bizarre composition with mint, smoky incense/vetiver and fruits that's quite weird indeed. Linear and just a tad loud but definitely distinctive and (somehow) pleasant. It opens with incese juxtaposed to melon to then "evolve" into a smoky vetiver and a sort of woody-fruit-salad that's fresh and dark at the same time. Funny and very wearable, but far from being the masterpiece I expected.

I think I made a big mistake with Breath Of God as the first time I smelled it, I was at Lush surrounded by the loud and cacophonous chemical aroma that is typical of this kind of stores and, as the sense of smell is inarguably bounded and related to memory, my brain is no more able to dissociate the smell of BOG from the fake "natural-justmade-cosmethics&soaps" odor of Lush's points of sale. I decided to buy a 10ml vial anyway and maybe, one day, I'll be able to fully appreciate Breath Of God.

Edit July 2011:

After several wearings I can say I'm addicted. The smoky vetiver juxtaposed to the general fresh vibe is extremely compelling and absolutely unique. Kudos.

Rating: 8.5-9/10

Etat Libre D'Orange Fat Electrician

This is what I call a different take on vetiver. A solid interpretation that is able to emerge in this crowded territory. A fine mixture of opoponax and vetiver laying on a slightly sweet vanilla base and enriched by hints of incense and resinous elements throughout. Easy to wear yet distinctive, simple yet perfectly refined. A nice everyday's fragrance and one of the best releases in the Eldo's range. A valid option if you're looking for a modern masculine but you want to avoid the usual clean-laundered synthetic-citrus loaded with woody maber.

Rating: 8/10

Torre Of Tuscany Vetiver Moderno 

Vetiver Moderno has the typical transparent aspect of many modern niche fragrances. The usual green-citrusy opening it's paired with a smooth yet quite complex floral pattern that's pretty well executed but probably not so original. During this phase nutmeg provides an overall spicy-pungent aspect while the florals work as a sort of kaleydoscopic machine continuely changing from soft white flowers to hints of rose and iris. I can't actually put my finger on what other fragrance Vetiver Moderno reminds me of but, the feeling of deja-vu is quite strong.

The drydown is clean, musky and woody and it's where a restrained vetiver note plays its main part. Not bad if you like the genre but very far from being outstanding or worthy of being classified as a vetiver-centered composition. Check it out if you're looking for a spring/summer fragrance in the typical transparent style of modern niche perfumery.

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Lalique Encre Noire

A great, clean vetiver with a dark twist. I find Encre Noire to have 3 quite distinct phases while keepeng the same characteristics throughout. The opening is potent, earthy, dark and a bit pungent, then it settles down to a mid phase where vetiver plays its main role with a transparent and clean intepretation. It's bold and somehow polite, clean but not affected and it still mantain the "dark nuance" that makes it so fascinating. In the final phase, the vetiver is enhanced in its licorice aspect and, together with musk and woody notes, give birth to a delighful drydown (assuming you don't mind a consistent dose of Iso E Super). A discreet scent, quite close to the skin but absolutely beautiful in all its parts, bottle included. Not as good as Sycomore but if you're on a limited budget this is a winner.

A crowdpleaser.

Rating: 8/10

Kenzo Kenzoair 

An underrated gem.

It happened by accident that I layered two fragrances. I was testing Encre Noir to write my final review and instead of spraying it on an unscented smelling strip, I sprayed it on a piece of paper on which I previously tested Etro's Anice.

What a suprise to smell the anisic aspect of vetiver amphasized by the real anise note. Especially in the drydown when the two perfumes blended perfectly together.

Well, I found Kenzo Air Intense / Kenzo Air to have a very similar vibe to the above scenario and despites probably not being as praised as Encre Noir, it still has a great charme. Peppery, anisic, funny. Chemical? Yes, most definitely, but very well blended. Does great in warm weather.

If you're wondering about the differencies between the "intense" version and the original, well, I haven't found a substantial one. The "intense" is exactly like the original version but a little bit stronger, that's it.

Groovy bottle.

Rating: 7.5/10

Comme Des Garcons Series 4 Cologne: Vettiveru 



I can easily say that Vettiveru is a valid candidate to be considered one of the best bang for the buck when it comes to vetivers. An incredibly nice composition that improves the eau de cologne formula with a slightly "dirty" vetiver note. The overall effect is quite intriguing with the clean aspect given by the neroli/bergamot/florals combo juxtaposed to a dominant vetiver note that add a earthy/salty vibe that's at the same time refreshing and invigorating. Great lasting power, nice projection, very reasonably priced. One of the best "fresh" vetivers around. Recommended!

Rating: 8/10

Vetivers Pt.3 (The Lightest)

Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver

Dior's interpretation of vetiver is essential, fresh, minimalistic, no-surprise and leaves vetiver to speak by itself. Opens with a zingy green citrus accord and evolves into an incredibly satisfying, high-quality multi-facets woody/earthy/rooty vetiver with a nice projection and a good lasting power. An incredibly simple composition that sounds more like a tribute to this fascinating root. 

I still prefer the complexity of Sycomore or the green edges of Vetiver Extraordinaire, but Dior Vetiver is surely another great high-end vetiver to add to my list of favorites.

No coffee detected, sorry.

Rating: 8/10

The Different Company Sel De Vetiver 

Another top notch in this genre. Quite simple yet incredibly satisfying. The usual sharp and rooty vetiver is joined by a iodine, sort of salty, note. Probably not among the most complex in this genre but still pretty darn good in its minimalistic interation of the accord. Very moderately powerful.

Rating: 7.5/10

Mona Di Orio Vetyver

Mona Di Orio's Vetyver, together with Vetiver Pour Elle, is probably one of the most sophisticated interpretation of this root. Don't get me wrong, the Guerlain and the MdO don't share almost any similarity but they're still both great examples of perfect unisex elegance. Where Vetiver Pour Elle achives elegance by introducing white floral patterns, the MdO plays on subtle undertones and details with an overall result that is far from being complex yet incredibly sophisticated.

Vetyver opens with ginger and bourbon vetiver that immediately give the fragrance a fresh, fizzy, sort of zing-y quality. The ginger starts to fade while the fragrance "morphes" into a resenous and woody middle phase and drydown subtly enriched by a soft violet note while labdanum and tonka beans provide a tad of sweetness. Amazing exectution.

Overall, Vetyver would make an hell of a fragrance for any vetiver lover but, most of all, could represent a terrific alternative to anyone who's looking for a vetiver-centered composition that takes the distance from the straight forward and hardcore types of stuff a-là Vetiver Extraordinaire or Route Du Vetiver.

Just beautiful.

Downside: weak projection.

Rating: 8/10

Santa Maria Novella Eva

Earthy and fresh! A simple (almost simplicistic) and very easy to wear citrusy vetiver with peppery undertones. Unpretentious, modern, pleasant and very natural yet not particularly interesting. Definitely unisex.

Good if you don't know any better.





Rating: 6.5/10

Lubin Le Vetyver

Among the good vetivers this is my least favourite which means that is good but not exactly up my alley.  Loads of citruses (mainly grapefruit) and some "green" tobacco bring Le Vetiver towards the fresh-woody territory. The fragrance has good depth due to the presence of a remarkable frankincense note but, unfortunately, it suffers from a few stereotyped aspects (mainly concerning its strong classic masculine vibe). Yes, this is an old-fashioned type of fragrance which is usually a "pro" for me, but in this case turns to be a "con". It smells sort of Guerlain wannabe (expecially the grapefruit-centered opening which reminds me of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune). Whenever I look for a classic masculine in the same vein I directly go for Tuscany Per Uomo.

Moderate lasting power.

Rating: 6.5/10

L.T. Piver Vetiver

A vetiver in which freshness is achived with an unripe green apple note in the opneing. It dries down to a retrò woody-nutty fragrance that's still pretty likeable but, maybe, not as interesting as it is during the opening. Nice and inexpensive.

Rating: 6.5/10

Vetivers Pt.2 (The Smokiest)

Sigilli Athunis

Athunis, together with Fvmidvs by Profvmvm and Diptyque's Essence by John Galliano, is possibly one of the smokiest vetiver I ever experienced. Something to make the Villoresi or Exhale look like a refined Eau De Cologne. The opening is quite challenging and smells exactly like an estinguished fireplace where you've burned a pile of cedarwood trunks. A true to life experience. A raw, sharp vetiver note make it's appearance right away turning the composition into a straight forward rooty/earthy fragrance. Something you should definitely look for if you're into rough, straight forward manly vetivers.

Caution: the "burnt" aspect of Athunis is pushed to the very limit and, expecially during the inital phases, the fragrance may result strongly challenging to anyone who's not into strong smoky compositions. Me? I quite like it and find it much more approachable and balanced than Fumidus. On a once in a while rotational roster. 

Rating: 7/10

Etro Vetiver (Vintage) 

Another great vetiver to add to the huge list of great vetivers. If you like it smoky, woody, earthy, kinda rough and solidly crafted, go ahead! Good work! The bonimial smoky + licorice makes of Etro's Vetiver on of the best alteratives to the always harder to find vintage MPG's Route Du Vetiver.

Rating: 8/10

Profumum Fumidus

The notes list is promising the scent is definitely disappointing. Ok, there are three ways to approach this review for me:

1) Great perfume if you like to burn wet vetiver roots in the fireplace (translated: A LOT OF SMOKE) while drinking some Scotch and in the meantime you don't realize your place is going on fire.

2) great perfume if you want to smell like you've just been rescued from you mountain hut that has gone on fire.

3) great perfume if you like to set fire to the trashcan where you have wasted an old vetiver fragrance gone bad.

To me it simply smells horrible, unpleasant and definitely unbalanced on the smoky side. Sorry, I've to pass on this one.

Rating: 4/10

Mekkanische Rose Tuba 

Mekkanische Rose is a small independent brand based in Berlin and run by two german brothers who have converted to islam. Their little shop, located just right next to one of the most popular shopping area of the city is a perfume paradise for anyone into hand-crafted oriental fragrances. Their use of top quality absolues (which they also sell) and civet/castoreum as fixatives should ring a bell to anyone into old-fashioned and classic compositions.

Their take on vetiver, called Tuba, is a simple/rough yet extremely satisfying smoky-fresh concoction that will appeal to those of you who're looking for a bold masculine that's at the same time easy to wear. Tuba is available as both EDT and EDP strength. Villoresi Vetiver lovers take note...

Rating: 7.5/10

Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver

One of the most brutal openings around: rough, harsh and smoky with an overall acrid citrusy quality. Quite an experience. Unfortunately, It soon settle down to a very simple herbal-woody vetiver accord that's nice but nowhere close to mantain the promises of the initial phase. Somehow short-lived too.

Overall, I'm afraid I'll have to give Lorenzi Villoresi's Vetiver a neutral rating because while the opening is really quite something, the drydonw occurs too soon and reveals a no-suprise and sort of average quality fragrance. if you're up for a straight forward rough composition in the same vein, try to check Mekkanische Rose Tuba, which does basically the same thing at 1/5 the price. Seriously.

Rating: 6/10

Vero Profumo Onda 

Saying that Onda EDP is a challenging composition would be like considering Marcel Proust and easy read. Onda is far beyond being just challenging, is weird, destabilizing and unusual but at the same time "cultured". It is built around a solid structure that shows many characteristic of classic perfumery and adds a bizarre, sort of futuristic, accord of passion fruit and vetiver that together with floral pattenrs and ginger gives birth to a strange blend that sits somewhere between a disinfectant, a mass destruction weapon and pure luxury. Overall Onda smells salty/sweet with fresh nuances, flowery with acidic/unripe fruits and definitely sulfurous (urine?). While all of this may sound disencouraging, I still believe that Onda deserves our respect as one of the most intriguing, complex and original compositions around. Onda, more than like a proper fragrance, sounds like a declaration of intent that says "I'm here, and I'm here to stay!".


On the other hand the extrait de parfum is, paradoxically, more familiar. Don't get me wrong, it's still far from being easy to wear or "pretty" but, its chypre-y animalic leather structure brings, somehow, to mind of the beloved Djedi. A loud vetiver-leather concoction that moves on the thin line between glory and precipice, between a luxurious smell and a revolting stink. Earthy, animalic and almost disturbing yet extremely compelling. Onda was definitely an ambitious and risky project just like doing tightrope walking between two skyscrapers. It took some skills and a guts but Vero Kern has successfully managed to walk to the other side. Chapeau.


Two of the most challenging and compelling compositions that I've ever experienced. By all means niche stuff.

Rating: 9/10

Vetivers pt.1 (Some Pillars)

Guerlain Vetiver 

Vetiver EDT (Vintage Formulation)

Not much to say about Guerlain's Vetiver as it's possibly the most popular and seminal vetiver based fragrance ever created. The vintage formula was loaded with oakmoss and tobacco that together with the main element created a deep and incredibly satisfying blend. Fresh yet somewhat dirty with the typical, slightly rough, barbershop vibe of certain fragrances of the same period. Always stated as the reference vetiver. Mandatory!

Rating: 10/10

Vetiver EDC

Quite rare. This was a lighter version of the original Vetiver emphasized on the citruses. Still plenty of oakmoss and with a strong "Eau De Guerlain" type of vibe. Perfect for anyone who enjoys heavy applications.

Rating: 8/10

Vetiver EDT (Current Formulation)

Re-launched in 2000. A "no spurprise"  linear composition that's at the same time classy, versatile, outstandingly wearable, contemporary, honest and solidly crafted.  A great all-rounder. The current formulation is kinda polished and toned down on both the oakmoss and the tobacco with an overall effect that's at the same time fresher but less distinctive than the vintage. Said that, this is still pretty darn good. Not exactly long lasting, though.

Rating:  7/10

Givenchy Vetyver

Surely not among the most easiest to find. Another no-surpise type of vetiver that's classic, simple and realiable! If you like it nutty and treated to a slight dose of aldehydes on top, this is possibly one of the best around. "Pur Excellance". Finally reissued in the Les Parfums Mythiques series together with a bunch of other classics from this marvellous house.

No desctription needed!

Rating: 9.5/10

Maitre Parfumeur Et Gantier Route Du Vetiver 

As a vetiver lover I've been encouraged many times to try Route De Vetiver (Vintage) and when I finally decided to face it I discovered an extremely compelling fragrance. RDV's opening is possibly one of the best representation of vetiver available on the market. Earthy, extremely bitter, wet. I never smelled vetiver's roots myself but I have the feeling that if you'd extract them from the ground after a couple of rainy days, they would smell exactly like RDV's opening. The drydown is incredibly woody and earthy, bold but not overpowering yet extremely masculine. Surely among the most uncompromising iterations of the rooty vetiver accord.

My little "disappointment" (not exactly the right word) comes with the refurmulated version that  tends to be similar to other masterpieces of the same family such as Sycomore. Don't get me wrong, the current Route De Vetiver is still an outstanding scent, but if you're already familiar with Sycomore or with the vintage formula, it may result somehow disappointing.

Rating: 9/10 (Vintage) 8/10 (Current)

Editions De Parfums Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire

Well, this is the apotheosis of the "masculine vetiver fragrance" concept! A SUBLIME composition that immediately jumps at the top of its genre together with other masterpieces such as Sycomore, Route Du Vetiver, vintage Guerlain and the Givenchy's. Vetiver Extraordinaire is a stark and edgy composition where  the usual bergamot/citrus opening is dried to the bone by sharp woody notes and a massive dose of dry leafy and sort of green vetiver. Add a nice quasi-soapy twist and here's a masterpiece. For hardcore vetiver lovers only. One of my favourites.

Rating: 9.5/10

Chanel Sycomore 

I won't spend many words on Sycomore as it deserves at least a try. This is an absolute masterpiece, one of a kind type of fragrance and should be a mandatory purchase for any true fragrance lover. An outstanding and superbly crafted, smoky yet fresh vetiver centered composition enriched by hints of incense and a considerable dose of sandalwood. The usual aldehydes/iris roots "signature" by Chanel is there but works subtly to provide the right amount of sophistication. Dry yet plush, immensely satisfying. Possibly the best. 

Rating: 10/10