Dior *Sausage*: A New (?) Fragrance.

I don't know where to start with Sauvage.

let's start with this:

For unknown reasons, I really wanted to like it. There's something about most Dior's mainstream masculines that's never *too banal* or *too cheap* and, on top of that, the association between the words Dior and Sauvage must have played some mental tricks on me and made me think about Roudnitska's classic Eau Sauvage. Ok, we all know this is not an Eau Sauvage flanker and as a new, massively advertised, delivery from Dior, I thought I couldn't have skipped it.

For starters, this is not as bad as I expected. It's not even as bad as a rushed test might lead to think….but it's bad anyway in the end.

I won't go through a proper note breakdown because there's really not much to mention here. The opening it's the most generic peppery-citrus combo you could expect from a whatever modern woody-citrus fragrance. Slightly aromatic, zingy and metallic.The first hour in, I was really this close to dismiss it but then a smooth mineral amber base (ambroxan) broke in together with vetiver and things slightly changed. The fragrance plays in the same league as other *depersonalizing*, post-disinfectant fragrances such as Bleu de Chanel, Guerlain's L'Homme Ideal and before these, D&G Light Blue Pour Homme and L'Eau D'Issey but it takes the distance from the aforementioned perfumes by skipping that certain synth-y stickiness and / or loud volume that made all of them completely annoying to me. The Dior has a certain *raison d'être* provided by an elegant restraint and a class that is completely missing in most similar fragrances available on the market. It wears smooth and velvety with nice dark-ish facets in the base. It's extremely simple but, at least, they got right one of the two accords from which it is composed.

Do I like it? Let's put it this way: It doesn't completely suck. In the end, while I surely believe Sauvage is by far the best fragrance in this post Bleu De Chanel-phase, I still wonder if we really needed a post Bleu De Chanel phase. It feels deprived of any emotional aspect but not in a creative kind of way. It's unemotional without that certain sparkle that makes the difference between the words *aseptic* and  *aloof*. It feels devoided. It's carb free, gluten free, peanut free, allergens free…it's too politically correct. Ok, it's well done but for me it's not enough and, in the end, I guess it's just another fragrance for people who actually don't like fragrances. 

Last but not least, I'm not the biggest fan of the Dior Homme saga but compared to this, they're completely on another level. Like completely.

Rating: 5.5-6/10

Vetivers Pt.3 (The Lightest)

Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver

Dior's interpretation of vetiver is essential, fresh, minimalistic, no-surprise and leaves vetiver to speak by itself. Opens with a zingy green citrus accord and evolves into an incredibly satisfying, high-quality multi-facets woody/earthy/rooty vetiver with a nice projection and a good lasting power. An incredibly simple composition that sounds more like a tribute to this fascinating root. 

I still prefer the complexity of Sycomore or the green edges of Vetiver Extraordinaire, but Dior Vetiver is surely another great high-end vetiver to add to my list of favorites.

No coffee detected, sorry.

Rating: 8/10

The Different Company Sel De Vetiver 

Another top notch in this genre. Quite simple yet incredibly satisfying. The usual sharp and rooty vetiver is joined by a iodine, sort of salty, note. Probably not among the most complex in this genre but still pretty darn good in its minimalistic interation of the accord. Very moderately powerful.

Rating: 7.5/10

Mona Di Orio Vetyver

Mona Di Orio's Vetyver, together with Vetiver Pour Elle, is probably one of the most sophisticated interpretation of this root. Don't get me wrong, the Guerlain and the MdO don't share almost any similarity but they're still both great examples of perfect unisex elegance. Where Vetiver Pour Elle achives elegance by introducing white floral patterns, the MdO plays on subtle undertones and details with an overall result that is far from being complex yet incredibly sophisticated.

Vetyver opens with ginger and bourbon vetiver that immediately give the fragrance a fresh, fizzy, sort of zing-y quality. The ginger starts to fade while the fragrance "morphes" into a resenous and woody middle phase and drydown subtly enriched by a soft violet note while labdanum and tonka beans provide a tad of sweetness. Amazing exectution.

Overall, Vetyver would make an hell of a fragrance for any vetiver lover but, most of all, could represent a terrific alternative to anyone who's looking for a vetiver-centered composition that takes the distance from the straight forward and hardcore types of stuff a-là Vetiver Extraordinaire or Route Du Vetiver.

Just beautiful.

Downside: weak projection.

Rating: 8/10

Santa Maria Novella Eva

Earthy and fresh! A simple (almost simplicistic) and very easy to wear citrusy vetiver with peppery undertones. Unpretentious, modern, pleasant and very natural yet not particularly interesting. Definitely unisex.

Good if you don't know any better.





Rating: 6.5/10

Lubin Le Vetyver

Among the good vetivers this is my least favourite which means that is good but not exactly up my alley.  Loads of citruses (mainly grapefruit) and some "green" tobacco bring Le Vetiver towards the fresh-woody territory. The fragrance has good depth due to the presence of a remarkable frankincense note but, unfortunately, it suffers from a few stereotyped aspects (mainly concerning its strong classic masculine vibe). Yes, this is an old-fashioned type of fragrance which is usually a "pro" for me, but in this case turns to be a "con". It smells sort of Guerlain wannabe (expecially the grapefruit-centered opening which reminds me of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune). Whenever I look for a classic masculine in the same vein I directly go for Tuscany Per Uomo.

Moderate lasting power.

Rating: 6.5/10

L.T. Piver Vetiver

A vetiver in which freshness is achived with an unripe green apple note in the opneing. It dries down to a retrò woody-nutty fragrance that's still pretty likeable but, maybe, not as interesting as it is during the opening. Nice and inexpensive.

Rating: 6.5/10

Dior Leather Oud: you stink so good!

Leather and Oud together! Two of the most potentially challenging notes in perfumery paired together with the addition of an HUGE amount of animalistic notes (mainly civet), beeswax, other woods and birch. Leather Oud is definitely impressive with its bold and intense aroma. As a friend explained me, the oud here is mainly oudwood which is extremely different from the oil because it lacks the usual burnt-sugar and medicinal vibe. It smells strongly woody, dark, incredibly deep and smoky. Absurd amounts of animalic leather and civet with the addiction of birch, provide extra power and a skanky feel that is surely not intended for anyone who's looking for an easy-wear. Honey/beeswax play as a substantial refinement expecially when smelling the fragrance form a distance. 



While Leather Oud can surely be considered as a modern composition, at the same time it clearly shows many chrisms of classic french perfumery (its boldness, the strong animalic presence, and a certain "dirty" vibe that we very rarely find in todays masculines). Incredible projection and lasting power. Insanely powerful.

I've to be honest: I didn't expect such a challenging fragrance from Dior. Leather Oud is stunningly beautiful and a true candidate to become the most solid alternative to the laundered age.



Note: Thanks god this has nothing to share with the obnoxious concoction of chemicals that is Montale's Aoud Leather.

Rating: 8.5-9/10