An Excursion Into Sonoma Scent Studio - Part 1

Tabac Aurea

Wonderful! This is the first thing that came to mind just right after a bunch of minutes of wearing. 

Tabac Aurea is definitely up there amongst the most intriguing interpretations of this wonderful aroma. Yes, it is sweet and ambery but it's neither *too* sweet nor foody. It just takes the typical sweetness of certain tabac leaves and translate it into an incredible blend of smooth woods, resinous (dry and restrained) amber and deep musks. If you like stuff a-la 1740 or Feuilles De Tabac, you'll probably dig Tabac Aurea as well. Don't get me wrong, these fragrances share very very few aspects if any at all but this is just to say that sweetish stuff doesn't necessarely mean cupcakes or food. On top of that Tabac Aurea is pervaded by a resinous dryness which carefully preserves it from becoming cloying at any stage. 

Tabac Aurea has really nothing to envy to the most popular fragrances playing similar themes and it's a tremendously solid option for anyone looking for a top-notch in this genre and an easy-to-wear elegant composition at the same time. Tobacco Vanille, move on. 


Sometimes, it's really not necessary to splurge big tickets to smell great. 

Rating: 8/10

Incense Pure

Just right after spraying Incense Pure on skin, it immediately brings to mind of an hypothetic
mash-up between the infamous Norma Kamali Incense and Jovoy La Liturgie Des Heures. It has the same dark starkness of the former and the sparkling, clean, greenish vibe of the latter. The main accord has been played ad nauseam but it's absolutely incredible how Incense Pure is able to gain its own spot amongst the most valid options in this genre. The main point of strength of this fragrance is that it doesn't play the churchy theme but opts for a more realistic interpretation of sap resins and woods. 

Yes, the fragrance is surely driven by an holographic frankincense accord to which Mrs.Erickson paired several other resins (mainly labdanum and some myrrh) and woody notes. What comes out is a *slightly* smoky composition enriched by a smooth dry sandalwood base. Powerful but absolutely comfortable, well rounded and tremendously balanced. As in other deliveries by SSS, there's an overall outdoorsy vibe which brings *natural* perfumery to a completely new level. It's natural because it smells natural but, most of all, because it evokes beautiful natural landscapes, great outdoors, fresh air.  In this context, Incense Pure speaks more about incense in the forest as opposed to incense to church. I've to be honest, the first time I tried it, I was sort of disappointed but it *completely* won me over after the second wearing. There's something so special about this stuff, something perfectly nailed. Something probably more inherent to its simplicity than to its originality but this *je ne sais quoi* turns the whole composition into a total winner in my book.

Nice sillage, tremendous longevity. No matter how much you apply, this stuff always feels perfectly sized. Love, seriously!

Rating: 8/10

Forest Walk

Forest Walk opens very green, no doubts. There's galbanum and fir but also something very resinous. From the very early stages the fragrance is pervaded by both an outdoorsy vibe as well as remarkable hearthy notes providing a wet-soil nuance. There's something mossy and almost moldy that immediately brings to mind of wet foliage and, yes, a forest. A consistent violet note breaks in right away and smoothes the otherwise stark-ish opening. I'm generally not fond of violets but the way the accord is handled is absolutely nice. Maybe because it doesn't lean towards the overly sweet, candied violet note we too often experience in classic perfumery. It provides a tad of powder and some sweetness but nothing to be scared of. The fragrance still goes on with its earthy vibe and it's joined by smooth-and-deep woody notes and more resins. It takes a slightly darker twist that leans more towards meditative types of compositions. Very intimate, sort of sullen, perfect for fall days spent in the outdoor.

One thing to notice is that Mrs.Erickson completley skips any apothekary vibe which is typical of certain types of perfumery. Her fragrances smell natural as opposed to indie, beautiful as opposed to trendy and elegant as opposed to ridiculously priced.

Forest Walk is a bit too sweet to completely match my tastes but it's very nice nevertheless.

Rating: 6.5-7/10

Winter Woods

Winter Woods strikes as a darkish smoky amber. Its woody presence, together with birch tar, preserve it from becoming too sweet while a smooth animalic presence adds some density and depth. As in many other ambers, Winter Woods has a remarkable deja-vu vibe throughout but, as I already experienced in other SSS, the real secret here is the incredible balance. It wears comfortable and cozy just like your favorite brown cashmere sweater you use for winter walks on sunday mornings.

All in all, I'm not intrigued enough but those who like moderately sweet and non-foody woody ambers (as opposed to woodyamber), might find in WW a valid option that's unquestionably on the same level of more popular deliveries playing similar themes.

As usual with this line, sillage is nice while lasting power is definitely outstanding. Reasonably priced. Nice.

Rating: 6.5-7/10

No comments:

Post a Comment