Nico Uytterhaegen...when darkness comes from Belgium

Here's another recent discovery. Nico Uytterhaegen is a mysterious Belgian designer specializing in avanguardist leather goods and jewelery.

He recently introduced, on the market, a new line of fragrances called NONONSENSE. The line strikes me as incredibly inscrutable and obscure with handcrafted bottles produced in extremely limited quantities and wrapped in a black leather wallet. They're available as 50ml in EDT strength. Here are descriptions and pictures directly from the brand. I report them exactly how they wrote them...

A fragrance with a very strong nature. This eau de toilette represents the perfect combination of 100% pure essential oils such as eucalyptus, laurel, geranium, ylang-ylang, patchouli and vetiver. The scent is as fresh and vivacious as vbrant and exotic.

On a first contact this eau de toilette takes you through woods, spices and rosewood directly followed by vetiver, benzoë, laurel and rosemary. The top note evolves from fresh to intense ending, lately, with a light exotic groundnut note.

A heavy blend of bergamot and citrus creating a spicy eau de parfum evolving into the sensual and intense aroma of Europ. This elixir stimulates the senses. It's a breath of mystery, deep as a black absorbing light. The finished product is harmonized by vetiver, patchouli and ylang-ylang accent.

An irresistible fragrance which emits a subtle vibe of sensuality and mystery. On first contact, the scent is vivacious, seductive. A sparkling note of citrus combined with laurus and lavendula. It evolves towards a sensual eau de parfum based on the intense aroma of Europ and apple...The finished product is harmonized by vetiver, patchouli and ylang-ylang accent.

An irresistible fragrance which emits the softness and freshness of flowers. It evolves into a sensual eau de toilette based on amber and musk. The product is harmonized with a subtle oriental scent and modest touch of benzoë on the background.

And here are my takes...

So far I've tried 4 out of 5 as number 3 was temporarely unavailable.

No.1 is almost a geranium soliflore which is strongly aromatic and persistent. Sort of a bolder L'Anonyme with a remarkable rooty vetiver presence. Extremely stark and masculine.

Rating: 6/10

No.2 is a weird but wearable concoction of synthetics and naturals. A spicy/woody mixture with resinous undertones and some "undetectable notes" that give a bizarre fresh/exotic/disinfectant vibe (something that strikes halfway between heliotrope and a soft synthetic flower). It could easily go with the most successful compositions in the Comme Des Garcons Synthetic Series. I believe it's marked as feminine but IMO it's perfectly unisex.

Rating: 7/10

No.3 was temporarely unavailable.

No.4 is IMO the less interesting of the lot. A fruity/fresh concoction with a minty/flowery presence. Delicate, slightly sweet. Feminine.

Rating: 6/10

No.5 is, together with no.2, my favorite. Opens with a compelling mash-up between a nu-gere a-la Sartorial/Invasion Barbare and clean synthetic notes resembling Comme Des Garcons SKAI/Dry Clean. It evolves into a subtle and slight animalic musky/ambery base. Unisex.

Rating: 8/10

Overall I'd recommend this line to anyone who's into avant-gardist and conceptual compositions a-là Comme Des Garcons, Etat Libre D'Orange, Six Scents and the likes. Nico Uytterhaegen fragrances are definitely not so easy to find but if you're interested you can always contact him at www.nicouytterhaegen.be/ 

If you leave in the US you can find Uytterhaegen's collections and fragrances at Downtown Shop

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