After being discontinued for almost ten years and after reaching mythical levels of appreciation amongst perfumisti who paid literally hundred bucks to get that bottle sporadically showing-up on the internet, the infamous Cuiron has been re-launched.
A lot of things have already been said on the fact if this current 2014 iteration is faithful to the original and, in my opinion, it completely is. I think most of the differences people perceived between the two versions of Cuiron are mainly due to the aging process of the juice which felt in the original formulation a bit sharper during the opening (some top notes might have turned a little bit). For the remaining aspects, the fragrance is still 100% the old infamous Cuiron.
A little disappointment came with the fact the fragrance seems a bit (and unnecessarily) overpriced today. When originally launched, it went for average designer price vs its current average niche tag. Well, I guess that's still better than the astronomic amount of bucks we all had to theoretically splurge to get a bottle of the vintage.
Helmut Lang EDP 2014
The great news about Helmut Lang re-launching their whole range of fragrances, surprised quite a lot of us in the fragrance-sphere. Everybody was happy and concerned at the same time to discover if they messed up with these mythical fragrances and with much of my surprise, I've to say they didn't at all.
Current EDP is incredibly close to the original but, if I can dare, it feels almost better. It's slightly stronger and more balanced on the sweetness and, after all these years, still feels unique enough to gain all of my support and endorsement. I've to say that I found the original musk a bit more nuanced as it felt clean but maintained a certain dirtiness typical to this ingredient whereas the current iteration feels overall woodier and cleaner. Still top-notch stuff in my book.
Helmut Lang EDC 2014
All of the other re-issues by Helmut Lang hadn't disappointed my expectations and I'm more than happy to say that EDC makes no exception.
This is probably the one that's more distant from its original formulation but it's still somehow faithful to its former self. It feels slightly soapier, more sparkling and cleaner (closer to Tom Ford's Pure Musk in these aspects) but they also enhanced the general barbershop vibe which is, in my opinion, one of the most appealing traces of this impossible to overlook fragrance.
Now PLEASE, bring back Velviona and Helmut Lang Parfum.
Check out my takes on the vintage formulations here.