First of all first: Finally, an Hermessence I like.
I actually like a bunch of them and while I think JC Ellena is one of the undisputed masters of modern perfumery, I can't still count myself amongst the hardcore fans of Hermessence's *watercolor* interpretations of fragrances…with that said, Cuir D'Ange, just like Osmanthe Yunnan and a few others from the line, it's a tremendous exception.
I'd divide leathers in two main groups for this review. On one side I'll put the classic, animalic-driven floral leathers a-la Cuir De Russie and Knize 10 (to name just two of the most popular in this category). Well, I'm a total sucker for this interpretation of the main theme but the problem with these old-school type of compositions is that they gave birth to a plethora of clones (and semi-clones) that while I still quite like most of them, I also think they're all more or less kind of redundant (Cuir Cannage, Cuir Mauresque, Xerjoff Homme, Royal English Leather, Etro Gomma…and countless others). On the other side, there are the modern and hyper modern leathers a-la Cuir Pleine Fleurs, Alan Cumming's Cumming, Comme Des Garcons EDP 2011, Askew…
Well, Cuir D'Ange, while feeling somewhat classic (as in *classy*) it's also unquestionably modern. It's a new take on the floral-leather theme achieved by learning the lesson of the classics and bringing it to completely new territories. Yes, all of the Hermessence's hallmarks are there and make of Cuir D'Ange such a refreshing and novel delivery in a genre that's too often becoming a caricature of itself. I won't spend many words in dissecting notes as this is one of those fragrances I love (and encourage you) to experience as a whole. Let me only tell you it totally smells like today's Hermes. An incredibly sophisticated and an ultra-elegant composition where everything is perfectly in check as only a true master can do.
Completely genderless.
Rating: 8.5-9/10
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