Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver
Dior's interpretation of vetiver is essential, fresh, minimalistic, no-surprise and leaves vetiver to speak by itself. Opens with a zingy green citrus accord and evolves into an incredibly satisfying, high-quality multi-facets woody/earthy/rooty vetiver with a nice projection and a good lasting power. An incredibly simple composition that sounds more like a tribute to this fascinating root.
I still prefer the complexity of Sycomore or the green edges of Vetiver Extraordinaire, but Dior Vetiver is surely another great high-end vetiver to add to my list of favorites.
No coffee detected, sorry.
The Different Company Sel De Vetiver
Another top notch in this genre. Quite simple yet incredibly satisfying. The usual sharp and rooty vetiver is joined by a iodine, sort of salty, note. Probably not among the most complex in this genre but still pretty darn good in its minimalistic interation of the accord. Very moderately powerful.
Mona Di Orio Vetyver
Mona Di Orio's Vetyver, together with Vetiver Pour Elle, is probably one of the most sophisticated interpretation of this root. Don't get me wrong, the Guerlain and the MdO don't share almost any similarity but they're still both great examples of perfect unisex elegance. Where Vetiver Pour Elle achives elegance by introducing white floral patterns, the MdO plays on subtle undertones and details with an overall result that is far from being complex yet incredibly sophisticated.
Vetyver opens with ginger and bourbon vetiver that immediately give the fragrance a fresh, fizzy, sort of zing-y quality. The ginger starts to fade while the fragrance "morphes" into a resenous and woody middle phase and drydown subtly enriched by a soft violet note while labdanum and tonka beans provide a tad of sweetness. Amazing exectution.
Overall, Vetyver would make an hell of a fragrance for any vetiver lover but, most of all, could represent a terrific alternative to anyone who's looking for a vetiver-centered composition that takes the distance from the straight forward and hardcore types of stuff a-là Vetiver Extraordinaire or Route Du Vetiver.
Downside: weak projection.
Santa Maria Novella Eva
Earthy and fresh! A simple (almost simplicistic) and very easy to wear citrusy vetiver with peppery undertones. Unpretentious, modern, pleasant and very natural yet not particularly interesting. Definitely unisex. Good if you don't know any better.
Lubin Le Vetyver
Among the good vetivers this is my least favourite which means that is good but not exactly up my alley. Loads of citruses (mainly grapefruit) and some "green" tobacco bring Le Vetiver towards the fresh-woody territory. The fragrance has good depth due to the presence of a remarkable frankincense note but, unfortunately, it suffers from a few stereotyped aspects (mainly concerning its strong classic masculine vibe). Yes, this is an old-fashioned type of fragrance which is usually a "pro" for me, but in this case turns to be a "con". It smells sort of Guerlain wannabe (expecially the grapefruit-centered opening which reminds me of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune). Whenever I look for a classic masculine in the same vein I directly go for Tuscany Per Uomo.
Moderate lasting power.
L.T. Piver Vetiver
A vetiver in which freshness is achived with an unripe green apple note in the opneing. It dries down to a retrò woody-nutty fragrance that's still pretty likeable but, maybe, not as interesting as it is during the opening. Nice and inexpensive.