Vetivers Pt.3 (The Lightest)

Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver

Dior's interpretation of vetiver is essential, fresh, minimalistic, no-surprise and leaves vetiver to speak by itself. Opens with a zingy green citrus accord and evolves into an incredibly satisfying, high-quality multi-facets woody/earthy/rooty vetiver with a nice projection and a good lasting power. An incredibly simple composition that sounds more like a tribute to this fascinating root. 

I still prefer the complexity of Sycomore or the green edges of Vetiver Extraordinaire, but Dior Vetiver is surely another great high-end vetiver to add to my list of favorites.

No coffee detected, sorry.

Rating: 8/10

The Different Company Sel De Vetiver 

Another top notch in this genre. Quite simple yet incredibly satisfying. The usual sharp and rooty vetiver is joined by a iodine, sort of salty, note. Probably not among the most complex in this genre but still pretty darn good in its minimalistic interation of the accord. Very moderately powerful.

Rating: 7.5/10

Mona Di Orio Vetyver

Mona Di Orio's Vetyver, together with Vetiver Pour Elle, is probably one of the most sophisticated interpretation of this root. Don't get me wrong, the Guerlain and the MdO don't share almost any similarity but they're still both great examples of perfect unisex elegance. Where Vetiver Pour Elle achives elegance by introducing white floral patterns, the MdO plays on subtle undertones and details with an overall result that is far from being complex yet incredibly sophisticated.

Vetyver opens with ginger and bourbon vetiver that immediately give the fragrance a fresh, fizzy, sort of zing-y quality. The ginger starts to fade while the fragrance "morphes" into a resenous and woody middle phase and drydown subtly enriched by a soft violet note while labdanum and tonka beans provide a tad of sweetness. Amazing exectution.

Overall, Vetyver would make an hell of a fragrance for any vetiver lover but, most of all, could represent a terrific alternative to anyone who's looking for a vetiver-centered composition that takes the distance from the straight forward and hardcore types of stuff a-là Vetiver Extraordinaire or Route Du Vetiver.

Just beautiful.

Downside: weak projection.

Rating: 8/10

Santa Maria Novella Eva

Earthy and fresh! A simple (almost simplicistic) and very easy to wear citrusy vetiver with peppery undertones. Unpretentious, modern, pleasant and very natural yet not particularly interesting. Definitely unisex.

Good if you don't know any better.

Rating: 6.5/10

Lubin Le Vetyver

Among the good vetivers this is my least favourite which means that is good but not exactly up my alley.  Loads of citruses (mainly grapefruit) and some "green" tobacco bring Le Vetiver towards the fresh-woody territory. The fragrance has good depth due to the presence of a remarkable frankincense note but, unfortunately, it suffers from a few stereotyped aspects (mainly concerning its strong classic masculine vibe). Yes, this is an old-fashioned type of fragrance which is usually a "pro" for me, but in this case turns to be a "con". It smells sort of Guerlain wannabe (expecially the grapefruit-centered opening which reminds me of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune). Whenever I look for a classic masculine in the same vein I directly go for Tuscany Per Uomo.

Moderate lasting power.

Rating: 6.5/10

L.T. Piver Vetiver

A vetiver in which freshness is achived with an unripe green apple note in the opneing. It dries down to a retrò woody-nutty fragrance that's still pretty likeable but, maybe, not as interesting as it is during the opening. Nice and inexpensive.

Rating: 6.5/10


  1. alfarom
    Out of all the vetiver's that you have listed, Sycomore and onda would be the two runaway favourites for me. Have you ever tried Les Nez Turtle Vetiver Front ?.
    Also, Italian indie perfumer Maria Candida Gentile is just about to release a Vetiver called Gentile, that should be something to look out for.

  2. Onda and Sycomore are just amazing and surely among my favorites but I'm also quite of a big sucker for straight-forward hardcore stuff a-la Vetiver Extraordinaire or (for different aspects) Athunis. I've not tried the LesNez yet...Thanks for the tip on the Maria Candida Gentile.

  3. Hi Alfarom. I wanted to say hi. I've enjoyed your reviews for quite some time and they are a big inspiration. I live in Rome at the moment and appreciate Campomarzio a lot. With the recent warm weather I've also enjoyed the lightness of many Dior Collection Privées.

  4. Hello Gogol, glad to see you here. Thanks for your kind words. Yes, Campomarzio 70 it's a mandatory stop and both their SA's and onwers are very aknowledged and patient. Surely one of the best places in Italy for (niche) perfume shopping.